The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Stovebolt48, 1955 1 Series, Charles in CA), 114 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,189
Posts1,057,337
Members48,469
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 220
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 220
Hello!

At some point in time, someone bent the leading front edge of the driver's side door of my '59 apache (see link below).

They tried to straighten it with some kind of a hammer, doing even more damage to the door.

Unfortunately, this door is also somewhat rotted along the bottom, not the outer door skin, but along the bottom of the door shell, and the back corner has been bent out a bit.

What's the best way to fix this type of damage, or am I just better off biting the bullet and finding another door?

I've done some work with a dolly and hammer, and it come out pretty good, and I have a mig welder that I used to put on new cab corners, so I'm not afraid to cut some metal.

Thanks...

Chris

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac248/barsteel/100_0090.jpg

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
can't really tell much from that pic, but it's possible they were trying to compensate for a mal-adjusted door that had the leading edge catching on the fender [common problem], headache will be fixing 3 layers there as that's a pinch flange - with the multiple problems you describe it might be easier to find a better door [if you can], but with time and patience yours would be repairable - make sure when you re-fit the door that the leading edge is just slightly inboard of the fender

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 71
O
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 71
We had really good luck with fiberglass mat and resin on a door that was rusted through at the bottom.


1st Gen. Dodge Cummins 4x4 OVRTRQD Buick GNX #276
"If it died... we can fix it" | "If your not outraged, you're not paying attention." | "Do you know a large group of baboons is called a Congress? That explains a lot." ~author unwn
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 72
E
New Guy
New Guy
E Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 72
The gap between door and fender looks awfully tight! That is the major cause of catching a door.
If you can't find a better door, that looks reasonably repairable to me. I would remove the door and put it on a stand. Then, make a template of the fender's curve to match your door up as you hammer and dolly it. Rough it in, get the curve right, then cut out the bottom rotten part. Make a template for that area out of cardboard and then transfer to metal. Make your bends over a rounded corner to mimick the soft bends of the original.
Good luck - post picks!

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
The trouble with fiberglass is that it has different expansion rates than steel. Any variations in hot and cold temps in your location will tend to overcome the adhesion properties of the resin where the repair is a short lived one. You have many options, from making your own patches for the inner door, to reproduction patches, to a completely new door. I don't know what your fabrication skills are, but these threads may give some insight into inner door repairs that may be similar to what you have there. Even though they are of car parts, the process should be the same as that of the pickup truck. If fabricating your own repairs, sometimes it is easier to break down the repairs into more manageable pieces (easier to make that way) and then welding them together:

Inner door repair

Door skins

Inner tailgate repair

Regarding the repair of the outer skin, you may find it easier to remove either the front fender or remove the door from the truck to allow better access to the front flange for repairs. Make a profile template matched to the good door to have a better gauge of where the highs/lows are for more accurate metal bumping.


*edit* Hey Ed...looks like we were typing at the same time!

Last edited by MPandC; 11/07/2011 2:34 AM.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 72
E
New Guy
New Guy
E Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 72
Originally Posted by MPandC
Regarding the repair of the outer skin, you may find it easier to remove either the front fender or remove the door from the truck to allow better access to the front flange for repairs. Make a profile template matched to the good door to have a better gauge of where the highs/lows are for more accurate metal bumping.


*edit* Hey Ed...looks like we were typing at the same time!

That...or you're copying me! wink

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 443
I don't know how bad the rust is on the inside, but the damage in the photo is easily repairable. I have rust inside on both my doors & bought the inner lower panel from American Classic Truck, just haven't had time to weld it on.


1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery
My Photobucket shots

The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0