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#79520 07/03/2007 1:51 PM | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | I have rebuilt my 235 and plan to fire it up today or tomorro, now that she's back in the chassis. I have read through the engine timing threads, but wonder how applicable to a rebuilt engine. If the timing was set when I removed the engine, it seems that for the "re start", all I have to do is line up the "BB" on the bell-housing pointer, drop in the distributor, clamp it down, and go.....Any thoughts ?
J.D. Jordan
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#79521 07/03/2007 2:34 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | dublenaught,
It's a little more involved than that. The flywheel timing mark will line up twice with the pointer. You must determine when the piston on #1 is at TDC on compression...about to fire! The easiest way in my book is to pull the plugs, hold your finger over #1 hole and wait for a rush of air as the piston travels up to TDC.
As you feel this air push your finger away, watch the peep hole for the flywheel mark. Align the pointer and BB and you are on #1 TDC on compression....as opposed to #1 TDC on exhaust.
Now you can install the distributor, being careful to get the oil pump drive tang into the oil pump. Put the distributor in any old way you want. After it is in and seated perfectly, stick the rotor on. The #1 plug wire will go in the cap directly over the rotor. Install the other wires in firing order 153624 in clockwise rotation, and time with a light. Disconnect the vacuum advance line at the carburetor and plug it when you set initial timing.
Stuart | | |
#79522 07/03/2007 2:49 PM | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | Great information - I had failed to realize that the flywheel "BB" passes the pointer twice per cycle.
J.D. Jordan
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#79523 07/04/2007 7:57 PM | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 202 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 202 | Frequently on a new rebuild timing is a couple of degrees retarded till brake-in is over. Its easier on the engine as per machine shops and mechanics. You love the 235. I had one many years ago and even though the rear main leaked, it ran really good and reliable. It was in my 59 Chevy Bel Air with a manual 3 speed. I wish you well with your project. Henry | | |
#79524 07/05/2007 3:26 PM | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 95 | Thanks Guys.....I had much success following the above info. Started her up yesterday - couple of squirts of starting fluid and she was off running. Think I hit the timing pretty darn close as barely an adjustment was necessary. Should I follow up with the light, or just let her run on the premise if "it aint broke dont fix it....." ??
J.D. Jordan
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#79525 07/05/2007 3:34 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | dublenaught,
Great news. If you have a timing light, it only takes moments to attach and verify where you are at. This gives a benchmark location for 'tweaking' the timing to get a little more performance from the engine.
Stuart | | |
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