The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Relocating or Removing Oil Filter

I have ordered a dual intake and I need to either relocate the oil filter or remove it all together. I always keep fresh oil in my toys so hopefully that is a plus in my situation. The present oil filter (see pic) has two lines going to and from it and they enter the block in two separate locations.
[IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh28/OldUsedParts2008/PumpThruOilFilter1.jpg[/IMG]
About the only place that I have to relocate it on my GMC is on the inner fender wall (see pic and red X) but if I could just eliminate it then that's what I would like to do.
[IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh28/OldUsedParts2008/PumpThruOilFilter2.jpg[/IMG]
If I do end up removing it all together do I have to run a line connecting the previous locations of the hydraulic lines that were previously on the oil filter or can those locations just be plugged off?

Thanks as always and I appreciate your input,
OUP

You have a GMC? What engine do you have?

I thought GMC mounted them on the passenger side.

Sorry Gents, I should have mentioned that I have a 235 so it's not a stock Jimmy engine. Sorry, it's been a long one!

Personally I would never remove a filter, add one maybe, but never remove one.

First you need to figure out if it is a bypass (usually on earlier engines) or full flow (usually on later engines but could have been retrofitted) filter.
If it is a full flow filter I wouldn't even think about removing it, particularly without replacing it with a bypass line.
You can often remove a bypass filter and plug the ports, but why wouldn't you want the cleanest oil possible? If you can follow the lines and the return just dumps into the oilpan you are probably OK to disconnect, but again, why? - there's lots of space under the hood for a filter.

Good enuff for me, Gentlemen, the filter stays along with replacing the lines with some new ones and just relocating the can. Maybe I could evenfind some place that would chrome it - - - eh?

thanks as always,
OUP

I have relocated the canister on the inner fender wall and it appears that it will work nicely there. However, now I have another question concerning the heavy conical spring that slips over the bolt (between the lid and the threaded tube) that holds the lid on. First of all it puts a great bind on the thread when tightening and makes it difficult to know if you are sealing the lid or stressing the threads. QUESTION is can that spring be eliminated? Footnote: I am also assuming that the widest end of the conical spring goes towards the bottom of the lid????

That spring is supposed to hold the filter element down against the bottom of the canister, and I believe there's supposed to be a flat washer under it to distribute the spring pressure over the top of the element. Pressurized oil from the port on the side of the filter housing is forced through the paper element to the outlet orfice about halfway up the center post. Without the spring and sealing washers on the top and bottom, the oil just bypasses the filter media. Yes, the big end of the spring is supposed to bear down on the top of the element.
Jerry

There is also a spacer under the filter elment to keep it from bottoming out in the canister.

OK, I understand the spring now and I was definitely doing it wrong. Thanks, Jerry !

Ed, I didn't see or find any spacer below the filter element but the canister is tapered on the bottom so the element doesn't go all the way down.

Here's a good laugh for the both of you today. I loosely put the lid on the canister without the element and figured I'd crank it for just a few seconds to see if the pump was filling the canister. Well, the PUMP is definitely FILLING the canister and now I've got lots of old oil to clean up under my truck. Jeeze, I can't believe I did that - - - hmmmm, on second thought I can believe I did it. LOL

thanks again and have a great weekend,
OUP