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Any new info on t5 trannys? I put one in my 67 and had to use a different bell housing, a different clutch plate (different splines) and either shorten or lengthen the drive shaft (forgot) I picked up one today minus the shifter. I am getting tired of the gas milage on the old m21 Muncie. gonna sell it. The shifter almost cost the same as I paid for the T5

I should have put this in the drivetrain forum-sorry

Help. starting work tomorrow.

These guys make a T5 adapter that might be of some benefit.

regards,
Leon

Thanks Leon, I didn'tthink I would need a adaptor but will
know more when I get it out tomorrow.

OK, update. Got the darn thing out. Found out why I needed spacers. the input shaft is 3/8 too long. Found out I needed a 14 spline clutch disc, not a 10, Found out the shifter I bought was wrong base mount/ Found out the dtive shaft was 3 inches+- too long. But what in the heck do I do for a speedo drive. The t5 obvious has a electric drive. I don't. Help needed again.

You can just trim up the input shaft and the bearing retainer a bit, and no need for an adapter. Which truck is this going in?
Here's the info from my swap. http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/t5/index.htm
I've been told that the clutch disk's that we've used in the past that are listed there have been discontinued by O'Reilly and I haven't taken time to dig through my parts books to try to find another one that fits the specs. You need 14 Spline and it's hard to explain but you need a clutch disk with the center piece that slides on the splines is smaller on one side than the other in order to have enough room to disengage. The other option is to use a Di Grinder to extend the splines further back on the input shaft if you can't find a clutch with a shorter side.
Mongo

Thanks much, Am parts scouting today. Did you have any info for the speedo? Mine is mechanical and the tranny has a elect outlet for the speedo. Ihate to junk the new dolphin I installed 2 years ago.

There has been many posts on this through the last few years. Do a search & you should come up with a lot of info.
The clutch disc seems to be the biggest problem. The parts stores dont hardly sell mthe disc alone. The best way is to get a clutch shop to make one up. I havn't had sucsess with any of them around here though. If you are useing an 11 in clutch you can use one for a mid-late 80s Astro van. If it is a 10 in. you will need to get it made up. The last one I did has a 6 cyl. & 10 in clutch. I used the 9 in. disc from the S-10 & it works good.
With the elec. speedo drive you need to change the rear houseing & speedo drive gear with one from a mid 80s s10. Otherwise you will need an aftermarket electric speedo. There are converters available but they are expensive.

Got everything going good but my shifter I bought has a base plate about 3x4 I need one that is square. 3x3. Cant find one for a chevy s10/camero tranny. No Hurst-B&M cant find even stock. Help again.

The larger one fits Mustangs. You ought to be able to find one for a Camero that fits. Thats what I have used on mine. I would get the part # for you but I wont get to the shop for a couple more weeks as I just had knee surgery. Hurst/BM makes one for the Camero. I take an old floor shift shaft & modify it to bolt to the shifter. It looks like it belongs there. I have some original S-10 shifters. I can probably tell my partner where to find one & send it to you.

Give Dolphin a call and tell them what your hooking too, you might be able to hook the gauges to the output of the S-10 directly without the Pulse Generator. Find out how many pulses (PPM or Pulses Per Mile) the gauges are looking for and how many the S-10 outputs with my 53 and my Classic Instruments gauges I had to buy a $70 converter (At the time)from Dakota Digital to change it over. Took me a while this morning but I was able to track that part down here: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....y_id=358/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm
I've heard good things about the Dolphin gauges and have seen some of them in some late model installs so their gauge might be more flexible than the Classic Instruments I've got in that truck and might be capable of hooking direct but only Dolphin can tell ya' that.
Mongo

More info as I've had guys tell me they couldn't find the part numbers I list on my site. After some digging the manufacture of those discs is Perfection Clutch (http://www.perfectionclutch.com) Searching their parts catalog I found those numbers (http://www.perfectionclutch.com/PDF/PC-404-Catalog.pdf) Since the specs aren't listed there and that catalog hasn't been updated in a while I went ahead and called their tech line to double check that these are the right parts and get the actual specs. He confirmed: RCF4190 = 9 1/8th" and 14/1 spline and RCF4201 = 9 11/16" 14/1 spline. I asked him about the length of the center hub on either side of the disc, he said there really is no way to know as he's seen them both the same as well as one side shorter like the ones I have. He said grinding it down some on the back side shouldn't effect balance very much so that would be fine if you don't have long enough splines or you could lengthen the splines on the input shaft.
Their site shows they are available from Advanced Auto but he said they prob. do not stock it so you'd have to order it in.
I also found them on Summit's site under the Zoom name (Zoom is owned by Perfection ie.. Same stuff) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-RCF4190/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-RCF4201/

Hope that helps,
MONGO

I am running a 10 1/2 disc w/ 14 splines I got from Advance Adapters that fits some jeep aplication, p/n 716104. Had the T5 behind my '60 235 for about 4 years now & love it.

Well, still hunting parts. I think I can get the clutch locally
No price yet. The shifter still having problems.The camero one sounds like what I need but the local speed shop says they are long too.?? Might have to have your partner send me one
I will contact dolphin on the speedo. Ilooked at their site and it looks like all they have is conversions mechanical to electronic. I need the reverse. Am going to fab my own 3/8 spacer to eliminate the long shaft problem.
Many thanks to all. KCMONGO AND WRENCHBENDER for your efforts,

Up date. I relly want to thank everyone who helped. I have been a bolt member for quite a few years and Probably never appreciated the help you can get here. Thanks again.
Well I finally (with the help from jegs talk line)found a shifter that they assure me will work. Hurst # 3915032 Pray that is it the right one. That was the big holdup after you guys solved all the other stuff. Honest, I did this job about 8 years ago and breezed right thru it. Getting old is hell. I am planning on using a3/8 cold rolled spager between the tranny and bellhousing to avoid the shaft problem. any one see a problem there. I can fill the gap on the sides with rtv to keep the moisture out. I'm still checking this thread twice daily for your up dates. More thanks

With all the issues you're having with mating up a bunch of parts, you might be wise to take a deep breath.....and scout up the correct transmission to go behind a 350. It being the Camaro box that came behind the 305 in the Camaros. It requires no adaptor, no shaft cutting, uses the stock Camaro clutch disc with the 350 pressure plate and throwout bearing, also running the mechanical speedo and the gearing is far superior to the S10 box. I'm currently running this setup with a mechanical clutch linkage behind my built 355 in my hot rod. However, there is one little hitch.......the Camaro T5 box has the shifter forward so you have to swap out the offset Camaro T5 tailshaft for an S10 mech speedo tailshaft and change the shift fork mechanism. Sounds complicated but it really isn't.....check "Hybrid" T5 in the Tips section. I just picked up a cheap worn-out S10 T5 for the necessary parts. The only real big issue is relocating the S10 speedo gear to work on the Camaro T5 box......you'll need to purchase a 3/16" ($8.00) cobalt drill bit but the mods take about 30 minutes...the hybrid box bolts up perfectly, the clutch disc, pressure plate are standard Camaro parts and you'll be ready for some great mileage......I'm running a 3.73 R&P and the SUPERIOR GEAR RATIOS in the Camaro box gives me a decent 1st gear and plenty of top end. The short 1st (3.76 or worse yet 4.03 in the 4cyl box) gear in the S10 box will be a real pain-in-the-butt with a V8. I'm afraid that after you get all the parts rounded up you'll be disappointed in the performance and have a lot of money and time tied up in a transmission that doesn't fit your needs.

Hope this helps....

Dave

I can't find another t5 anywhere. I can make this one work now with all the help I recieved from you guys. NOW the speedo is another problem. No parts in any of the local salvage yards to scanvage.

I'm running the same box as Dave and very happy with it. I couldn't find the right tailshaft either and resorted to a transmission rebuild shop. Can't remember exactly what I paid for it. It was more that I would have paid at a wrecker, but then I did get it and got it on the road right away. You might get lucky by calling those shops, if you haven't already.

Just finished a T5 swap in my 55 2nd replacing the SM420. I used a 86 S10 T5 with a mechanical speedo, the original bell housing and 235, a spacer I found on the HAMB, 10 1/2 inch pressure plate, original fly wheel, original fork and a Camaro 2.8 V6 disc. Just seen the post with p/n for the Advance Adapters disc and I would have used it had I known. Also shortened the throw on the S10 shifter following the excellent tutorial in the tech section. Only drove it around the block but happy so far.

For you guys considering purchasing an "adaptor".....bolting the S10 T5 up to the 235 requires cutting the mainshaft about 3/8" AS WELL AS cutting the throw-out bearing retainer shaft (1-3/8") so it doesn't hit the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. The mainshaft cut is a breeze with an air cutoff tool (3" disc or in an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel) and the TO bearing retainer shaft can be unbolted, sawed with a hacksaw and the little internal seal can be replaced. Good insurance against an oil soaked clutch disc should the little seal go south. I don't see how an adaptor is going to correct both of these problems.

Secondly, finding T5's takes some "hands-on" action. Calling a salvage yards was a waste of time as their computers showed NONE and when I stood at the counter at one of the NONE yards, I could see 3 T5 gear shift levers sticking up on a rack. I bought both an S10 .72 box to back up the one in my 54 and a second Camaro box as a backup box for my hot rod....all for $300.00.

Also need to mention that it's really critical that you match up the T5 5th gear ratio with your ring and pinion ratio, tire height and the speed you select as "normal cruise." Be aware that there are 2 different common ratio S10 T5's...the .72 and .86 OD's. Failure to have these all matched up with the power curve on your 350 will negate having an overdrive transmission. Running a relatively stock 350 you'll want your normal cruise at about 1600-1700 rpms in 5th gear. I use this: http://csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html

I've got some detail instructions on setting up a .72 T5 for a 235 in my Chevy albums and some info on mods to the Camaro T5 in my 40 Hot Rod album. You might want to check them out and avoid some expensive issues I had to deal with.

Dave

Are you saying that you need to cut both main shaft and bearing retainer if you use the adaptor? I had no clearance issues using the spacer, clutch engages/disengages with no problems. The throw out bearing shaft is not contacting the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. The reason I used the spacer was to alleviate the cutting. Maybe there is a little confusion in what the adaptor is. With the 48 thru 62 L6 truck bell housing, the T5 S10 bolt pattern is identical. The spacer is used to index the trans, as the bell housing has a bigger diameter then the trans, plus position it or space it properly so no cutting is required. At least it worked for me.

This is what I went by from the spacer manufacturer.
"If you are planning to put an '83-'93 S-10 transmission behind your 235/261 Chevy inline, this is the adapter that you need. Used in conjunction with a '48 to '62 Chevy truck bell housing, this adapter allows for an unmodified T-5 to direct bolt to the engine. The standard S-10 T-5 has a longer input shaft and bearing retainer than a standard GM 3 or 4 speed. This adapter compensates for that."

Is a 5 speed out of a pontiac firebird the same as the camaro t5?

Should be but your best bet is to cross reference the #.
Should be a metal tag or a decal on top cover with 1352-XXX. The XXX will indicate what it is out of plus the ratios.

FLA54Chev
If I read you right I don't need the spacers if I cut 3/8 off the piece that goes in the pilot bearing and the same off the
throw out retainer shaft/ Makes sense to me when lookin at my tranny. Man I appreciate all the info I am getting

Yeah, the adapters simply are a spacer that sets between the Trans and the bell housing and negate the need to trim the trans. Either method can work fine, just depends on which route you want to go. In my case I found it easier and cheaper to modify the trans. I've considered building an adapter myself just to do it but haven't gotten around to it.
I've got a list of the ID Tags on my site http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/t5/T5tag.htm

Mongo

I had thought about trimming the input shaft and bearing retainer but decided that it would be easier, if the trans grenaded away from home, to replace with another. The spacer was reasonable at $120 and alleviates the guess work plus it is a great piece. I am not the manufacturer of said spacer but worked well for me.

Getting out the die grinder.

Dido you say 1 inch and 3/8??

Got upset this week and lit out to Fl. so the t5 project is on hold until I regain my sanity.

Still need to know if you trim the throw out shaft
1 3/8 or 3/8 to avoid the pressure plate

Not sure what you mean by throwout shaft. Measure the length of the bearing retainer coller on the old trans. & cut the T-5 to match. It cuts easily with a hacksaw after removal. Cut the end of the pilot shaft to match the old one with a cutoff wheel.
Slide the clutch disc on the input shaft till it stops. Mark it. Grind the grooves till it will slde on about 3/8 to 1/2 farther.
Drill the mounting holes out to 1/2 in. That should get it.
Dont get discouraged. There is a lot of info out here on this & the results a gratifying.

thanks

Back from Fl. and will start again. Shortened the drive shaft 3 in. Waiting on the clutch disc with 14 spline needed. Finally got the shifter from Jegs $215. Looks good though. I never noticed when disassembling, but how does the throw out bearing go? does the fork reciever go to the front or rear on the bearing?

There's a guy in santa ana ca. He uses a different input. I can give you his name if you want. He put my trans together for me and it slips right in. No modifications and the shifter fits nicer. If I could figure out how to load pictures I could show you how nice it fit. The spline stays the same.
Let me know

I also would like to thank every one. I've been running a T50 out of a sunbird for a lot of years( since 88 behind a 292). I thought it was a T5. The shifter is at the front of the seat. Finding a T5 is not easy in Maryland. The info on this topic was shure helpfull. I posted the question in driveline a few days ago. You guys answered all for me for me here. I,ve had my truck since 1974 and drove it every day. I made many modifications to it over the years. Shure wish I had this site then. Oh, I have a 5 window 53 1/2 Ton and I,m the third owner. State of Pa. was the first. Thanks again for your hard work.
Steve

And it is bright highway yellow. A very cool 5 window.

There are many t5 posts and links. a T5 hybrid using the V8 front section will not need to be trimmed.
click
using the search function

Well I am trimmed and up in place without the bolts in yet so I can't claim sucess yet. I had a had time getting around the x pipe. Why I thought that necessary I don't know. darn near got the torch out. It is setting on 2 pilot rod/bolts now,in place.
I got too tired wrestling it in place to continue. Cletus sugested a cigar break. :>)

break is over.. get back to work