The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Wheel Cylinders

Does anybody know of a vendor that sells the 1 3/8 bore wheel cylinders? or even a rebuild kit? and maybe not costing me an arm and a leg haha, LMC wants basically $100 a pop... correction, they dont even have the right size

I bought my front 1-Ton wheel cylinders from Lordco here I believe. I seem to recall that they were about $90. This was a couple of years ago. At the time, I don't believe they could get me rebuild kits. At least you shouldn't need to buy them for another 50 years or so....

Hy Josh_51GMC, Raybestos p/n for front wheel cylinders is WC4358, Lordco warehouse is supposed to have three, Raybestos p/n for rear wheel cylinders is WC9325, Lordco shows no stock, Raybestos p/n for the repair kit is WK77, Lordco warehouse is supposed to have three. If you'd like to know what I can purchase them for, send me a PM. Hope that helps.

RockAuto has the kits for $13.02

SimS

Pm sent to 3B

and i've only found that rockauto has the 1 1/8 bore... but then again im not very good with online catalogues..

I got my 1 3/8" wheel cylinders for my 49 3800 from Chevs of the 40's.
Hope that helps.

Jim Carter has them,i got mine for a 1946 GMC252 pretty sure they also have rebuild kits for them.Their phone number is 1-800-862-1913 also in links on this site

I bought two of the new front wheel cylinders for my 51 1 Ton when I was putting it together. After I bled the brakes I gave the pedal full force and the pedal slowly went towards the floor and I heard a metallic crunching sound. When I removed the front drums I found that the Huck thread on one of the new cylinder caps failed and stripped. Looking at it really closely I saw that there was a lot of clearance between the male part and the female thread and the whole assembly was much lighter than the original.

I have found the aftermarket wheel cyls. for huck brakes to be junk. The cups dont turn smooth on the cyls. makeing adjustment difficult. I put kits in the old ones.

i found a set a rebuild kits, just got to wait for them to be shipped in.
One question i have about the cylinders is i've blasted them, honed out the cylinders the tiniest bit possible. and when i was just "testing" to make sure they went back together properly, the (i have no idea what it should be called) cap that has all the grooves in it that you can adjust? with the screw/bolt that holds onto the shoes. sits fairly loose onto the body of the cylinder, is this normal?

pretty much the case. I've not worked on any in a long time but there is usually a "bar" going across the cylinder that keeps the "wheel" from rotating by itself. Sometimes that little "bar" will help hold them in place.
Another trick is to screw the "bolts" all the way out until you get the shoes on. If you screw them in it will have tension that will always be pushing back.

....now, as I said, its been a while on the old ones so if I'm not leading josh in the right direction someone please jump in here.

Josh, have you also checked the service manual. It seems long time ago I seen where the old mechanics had what looked like a set of spring pliers that would clamp on and hold them in place.
Whatever it is you can do it. Take your time and stick with it.

To hold mine in place I used cable-ties (zip-ties). When it came time to install the brake shoes, I just snipped the cables after the shoes were in place and pulled the cable pieces out. Some of the new wheel cylinders (I think the front cylinders) come with rubber bands instead. Same trick, just pulling out rubber band pieces instead.

It usually has a fair amount of clearance because it has to move everytime the brakes are applied.

Alright, thanks everybody, and yes i do have a service manual i've been going back and forth between haha.