|
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 210 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: May 2008 Posts: 210 | I bought a Mar-K Box and fiberglass fenders and running boards. I'm having one heck of a time trying to get these pieces to all fit together. I installed the front fenders and on the drivers side the rear curve of the fender along the cab pretty much goes right to the bottom front corner of the door and lines up with the rocker panel. The passenger side however it sitting about 1/2" forward from the rocker panel. I do not know if the drivers side is to move forward or the passenger side to move back?
I put the passenger side running board on. The ridges in the top of the running board, do they meet the contour of the front fender? or is there a space here?
The rear fender...I took my old metal fender and it bolted onto the Mar-K boxside no problemo and I drew a pencil line along the top on the box side. The fiberglass fender does not even come close to lining up with this line or the bolt holes. I measured where the front most bolt hole is on my metal fender and drilled a hole in the fiberglass fender and bolted it on and all the other bolt holes don't even come close to lining up and there is about an inch gap between the running board and the fender. I am at odds with knowing what is wrong (running board too short? fender way out on the curve?)
Does the rear fender sort of curve inwards toward the wheel where it meets the running board? It appears that my running board rear bolting face is on a slight angel with the top edge forward more than the bottom edge. I would have expected this bolt face to be on an angle the other direction.
Last edited by 46 HalfTon; 09/22/2011 4:39 PM.
| | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | I think Mar-K stuff is pretty decent, so I would expect your box to be close to original dimensions / fit. Fibreglass stuff is always a gamble. I tried a pair of rear fenders from Superior Fibreglass in Oregon - they were WAAAAAAY off on length, height, and fit to the running boards. When I questioned them on the phone, response was " oh well....the moulds stretch after a while and you have to expect some fitting " . To their credit, they took them back and gave me a full refund. I ended up with a pair of steel fenders that we could work with. If you want, PM me your emai. I can take a few pics of front and rear fit of my original running boards / fenders if that helps. | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 201 | I can't remember where I got my f/g fenders but there was definitely some arm wrestling to get them in place. Ditto what britcon said, trust the holes in the bed as being accurate. You can either flex them in place or if that's too hard you can (a) make a series of stress relief cuts , shape it correctly then repair the fiberglass before painting, or (b) my choice, call it close enough after flexing it as much as possible and drilling new holes.
'69 1/2T stepside, Sea Foam Green, 250 L6 w/ 3 on the tree, not an option on it, in the family since new.
| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 252 | I used Mar-K as well, Running boards are Smoothie Fabrications the rear of the running boards and fenders have the angle you speak of at least mine did. Hope this helps. | | |
| |
|