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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | So we got the old girl to run and now I am able to do some testing. I have no out put from the generator. I have 12v to the "B" terminal at the regulator and nothing at the other two "F" "A". If memory serves me correctly there was a jumper between two of the terminals at the regulator, but I do not recall which two. Do I need a jumper? There is no mention of one in any of the schematics I have looked at. Any help you can provide to troubleshoot and understand the charging system would be greatly appreciated. Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 | The only time terminals are jumpered is during the polarizing procedure, and only for one second or so. With the engine off, touch a jumper wire from the Bat. terminal to the A terminal. You'll get a small arc- - - -that's normal. Just don't leave the jumper connected for more than about one second. Polarizing creates "residual magnetism" in the generator armature, which is necessary for the generator to begin charging. A properly polarized generator will have approximately 1/2 volt present at the armature terminal with the engine running, with no wires connected to the generator. Because the field coils on a GM generator get their excitation from the armature, the F terminal will also have that 1/2 volt present when the generator is turning with no wires attached. If the F terminal is jumpered to ground, the voltage at the open A terminal will spike to a very high number, 40 or 50 volts in some cases. That is a pretty good method of determining if the generator is capable of producing charging voltage.
Once you're sure the generator can produce voltage, connect all the wires to the regulator, and crank the engine up. Be sure there's a ground wire between the generator housing and the regulator base. Rusty body/frame mounts can cause all sorts of charging system problems if the regulator can't find a good ground back to the engine. The regulator is controlling the output of the generator by changing the resistance of the F terminal ground circuit. A good ground is a must! As Armature voltage rises above about 12.5 volts, the cutout relay closes, and current flows from the generator to the battery, recharging it. As the battery charges, the armature voltage rises, keeping charge current flowing. The voltage regulator limits the voltage as it reaches about 14.7 volts to prevent overcharging. Dirty or burned points inside the regulator on the units behind the F and A terminals will prevent the field circuit from being completed, giving the generator no output.
DO NOT SAND OR FILE REGULATOR POINTS! They will stick, and cause the battery to be overcharged. Clean regulator points with a piece of business card or a strip of clean index card material. Have fun! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 | Great description. I will have some things to work on with this procedure. HB | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | Hotrod Lincoln,
Thanks for the help. I bumped the Armature terminal as you suggested and still no juice, but you made a good point about a ground from the gene. to the regulator, so I will make that correction after work Saturday and try it again. I'll let you know how it turns out. Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 127 | Hotrod Lincoln, Thanks for the help. I did as you suggested and installed a ground between the generator and regulator, but it didn't help. So I got frustrated and flashed the armature again (probably a little longer than you suggested) and now it puts out like a champ. I guess the second time I flashed it didn't really care if I held it too long  Thanks again for the advice. Jessica's TruckThe true definition of insanity: To do the same thing the same way repeatedly and expect a different result each time. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,748 | Good for you! Once the battery comes up to full charge, check the voltage at the battery posts with the engine running at a fast idle. The terminal voltage should be at least 14.5, and 14.7 is better. That's only against a battery with a specific gravity of the acid of 1.265 or more in all the cells. A partially-discharged battery will have a somewhat lower voltage, but seldom if ever below 13 volts. As the state of charge goes up, so does the voltage. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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