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I'm finishing up a frame off on my '50. I'm looking for someone in the greater Indianapolis area who can wire my truck. The truck is 95% complete. I purchased a Kwik Wire kit and have the fuse block installed on the firewall. I've pulled the sub groups to the main areas. After 5 years of work, this is the last big project. I've done virtually everything on the truck myself except short block and the paint. I know absolutely nothing about wiring and have no desire to try this myself. Instead I would much prefer a knowledgable individual who will do this correctly. I've been unable to find anyone locally (I live in a small town near Indianapolis). Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I just did mine myself, and it wasn't that hard. It took me about two months because I just don't get much garage time lately, but I probably spent a total of 10 to 20 hours. So if I could have started in on a Saturday morning, I'd probably have been done by the end of Sunday. It wasn't that bad at all. The instructions weren't the greatest, but I actually relied more on info from the Internet if I was stumped on something.

A shop will cost you $1,000 + to wire it. You can do it for $00.00 and surprise yourself of all your hidden talents. I can assure you anyone that has done most of a frame off will be able to finish up the wiring where you have directions to follow. I assume you have an original Bolt. The wiring scheme on that is so simple three blind mice could wire it.

I agree with previous posts....I used a Painless kit on mine. I delayed as long as possible as I had zero experience with vehicle wiring. Sounds like you have the hard part done in mounting the fuse block and running the wire groups. Take your time with the stripping / crimping of the connections. You might want to pick up a few extra as you are bound to screw a few up - just cut it off and redo. Any splices I made, I soldered, and then used the heat shrink tubing to seal them. Only issue I had was getting the brake and signal lights sorted out. Painless tech help line was great - they walked me thru the issues, faxed me a sketch, and got me going. Not sure how many circuits your kit has, but even a 20 Cct. kit should come along pretty quickly once you get going.

I had no experience with auto wiring either, but I wired my entire truck myself. It turned out to be maybe the thing I'm most proud of, so far. I bought a book on auto wiring and electrical systems and learned alot from there before I started. How to solder, test circuits, etc. You may find it very fun and interesting. With patience, I think a first timer can get professional results. Get a soldering iron, crimpers and GO FOR IT!

Contact Mark at Mad Electrical: http://www.madelectrical.com/

They have most anything you will need, including the best crimpiers money can by. Home Depot has the best wire stripper. You can get your solder pencil and rosin core solder there as well.

Thanks for the input and comments. Except for the disc brake kit and the Patrick’s rear end this is a stock ’50 3100. I believe I have everything I need to do this myself sitting on the workbench. I've done quite a bit of reading both here and in other sites and admit that I'm as lost now as when I started. I installed a Kwik Wire Kit and it’s much like a Painless Kit (interesting term for this topic). The directions are all Greek to me. Trying to find someone to do this type of work is difficult. Even restoration shops tell me that good electrical guys are hard to find. After dozens of calls, I believe this.
So I'll throw this example out to give you some idea of my limited knowledge.
If I start in the rear of the truck I have 2 tail lights. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1559.jpg
Each tail light assembly has 2 wires and 2 bulbs. Each assembly has a green and a black wire. Black is the top light and green on the bottom light. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1560.jpg
I also installed backup lights from a '50 Chevy that I want to wire up. Each light has 1 black wire.
My harness has the following labeled wires for the rear:
1. Taillights (2 wires)
2. Left Turn Signal
3. Right Turn Signal
4. 3rd Tail Light
5. Electric Fuel Pump
Here are my questions:
1. Which is the tail light? Top light w black wire or bottom light w green wire? And why can’t the manufacturer mark the wire as such?
2. Which is the turn signal? Top light w black wire or bottom light w green wire? And why can’t the manufacturer mark the wire as such?
3. Is the brake light the top or bottom light and how does it work?
4. Which wire from the harness do I use for the backup lamps? Why isn’t there a backup lamp wire in the harness?
5. Do I use a common wire between the 2 backup lamps and connect it to the harness wire?
6. What is the best way to connect the loom filled with wires to the frame? Wire ties, clips?
I know these questions are very simple but hopefully it will point to my total lack of knowledge on this topic. I could move to the engine compartment but I don’t even want to go there. The dent in my pocketbook is nothing compared to the wasted time and rise in my blood pressure that this topic creates. And after 5 years of work I’m ready to finish this project. Thanks.

Jss, I feel your pain. I feel the same way about my interior - ready to just be done with it. If you've got plenty of cash, take it to a good restoration shop and say fix it. But keep your wallet handy. As all have said, it will cost around $500-1000, even a qualified guy just needs time to get it done.

I also agree with those encouraging you to do it yourself. Eat the elephant one bite at a time. If you've already pulled the groups to the right areas you're about half way there. If the wires are well labeled, as most kits are, it's pretty much paint by numbers. Wiring these old trucks is pretty basic - every device needs power coming to it (from the battery via the fuse block) and a place to return the "leftover" juice to the battery (known as a "ground"). I had a spare battery with a good charge and used it with short leads and alligator clips (available at Radio Shacks etc) to test everything before I wired it in so I knew it worked properly.

As long as each device is well grounded (bare metal, well cleaned, screwed down tight) and the whole chassis is interconnected with grounding straps (cab to frame, bed to frame, frame to battery or engine block, engine block to battery) all should go well.

Think of electrical power as water in a hose, and the battery is the main valve or faucet. The pressure is "voltage" and the rate of flow going through the hose is "amperage". Most everything needs the same amount of pressure (volts) in order to work properly. Devices needing more power need more flow (amps) and have higher rated fuses for that circuit, and usually heavier gauge wires (smaller number gauge means thicker wire, don't ask). All the water has to go from the battery (think of it as a water tank under pressure) to the fuse block (just like a manifold) where it is redirected to each branch circuit. From there the water flows to the device needing water pressure (electrical voltage), sometimes having to travel through a switch (just like another valve) on it's way to the device. When the device is through with the pressure it sends all the water back to the battery to be "recycled" and repressurized by the pump known as the alternator. Some circuits are "hot" and always on regardless of key position while others are "switched" and only on when the key is on. For the most part, your fuse block and instructions will take care of this distinction but it's good to know.

Pick a simple circuit (like the engine area, few switches, straightforward) and see if you can't get it working (success here would be starting the engine) and I'll bet you gain confidence and learn a few things, ready to try the next branch circuit. Plenty of people here able and willing to help you with any bumps along the way. Just remember to keep bare ends protected (12 volts DC may not as dangerous as house wiring but it can bite the heck out of you) and taped until connected and test, test, test.


(PS - any electrical engineers out there please save the critiques of my perhaps imperfect analogies, just trying to give a big picture overview to the guy)

As for your questions, the lights appear to be using the housing as the ground connection. Use the test leads I mentioned, one from the battery positive to one of the wires, one lead from the battery ground to the taillight housing. Repeat for the other wire. The brighter of the 2 is of course your brake/turn light, the dimmer your taillight. the wire labeled turn signal will carry the brake light current and switching is handled through your turn signal switch, just connect as labeled. The third brake light is optional if you want to add one.

If no reverse light wire exists in the harness, find a switched circuit (like your radio, or fuel pump wire) and run that to your reverse light switch (I have to add one to mine) then out of that and to both reverse light housings. The light housing is again acting as the connection to the body and ground.

Wires can be connected using zip ties (use black, not white) or nylon clamps found at your local auto parts store.

My directions had me starting all wiring at the fuse block, taking each circuit from the box to the end. Like the Farmer said. eat the elephant one bite at a time.

When I bought my '53, I understood as much about electrical wireing as a kid in second grade.

The truck had been stripped of all wireing so there was nothing for me to go by.

The truck came with a wireing kit, but it was wadded up in a box, had no instructions, and no tags or labels.

I considered throwing the kit away and buying a new one just to have one with instructions and labels. I then found a wireing diagram, printed it out, and brought the box of wires in the house and strung it out all over the livingroom floor. after pushing wires around so that it started to look like the diagram, I bundled up the kit in different sections and took it out to the truck. After getting the wireing kit in the truck came the fun and easy part(I'm not kidding). Once you get started everything just starts to fall into place.

So even without instuctions, labels, or any prior experiance, I ...

rewired my truck

changed from positive to negative ground(GMC)

converted to 12 volt

and have't had a single problem.

Did I mention that it was winter and I don't have a garage? I would do it again in a heartbeat. Not only did it not cost me anything, but I also gained a little pride and a lot of knowledge.

1. From the pic those look like single fillimant bulbs. You can use the bottoms as your tail lights. The drivers side will act as your licence plate lamp

2. Use the top as your stop/signals. Note the black wire on one side may be green on the other. I ran into that.

3. Your brake light will work thru the stop switch on the fire wall.

4. tie your reverse lights together and run that wire to a seperate switch. Most use a under dash lighted switch like This
...pic...

5. see 4

6. see above Green Farmer Answer


What are you using for a turn signal switch?

Are your parking lights dual fillimant?

Like others who have posted I wired my 50 myself, first time ever. I enjoyed it and learned from a coworker and many here on the forum.

Good Luck

OK you've all talked me into trying this. So here it goes...

Questions:

Got the rear tail lights done. Moved to the front and wired headlights and parking lights. Installed the terminal blocks on the fenders and wired up hi/lo beams. First question:

1. What is the best way to ground the headlights? Self tapping screw thru the inner fender? See pic http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1561.jpg

I've got 2 wires coming out of each parking light/turn signal. I assume the signal is the brighter of the two lights. So I wired "turn signal" from harness to the brighter of the lights. Wiring digram shows parking lamp goes to 3rd connection on terminal blocks on fenders.

2. Can I wire the "parking light" wire from the harness direct to the parking light or must it go to the block then to the parking light as shown in the original wiring diagram?

I've got a single wire that says "Horn" on the Motor Group harness. My horn has 2 terminals on the bottom with no identification. See pic http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1562.jpg

3. To which terminal to I connect harness wire?

I've got several wires such as "oil gauge" and "temp gauge" and electric choke" from the "Motor Group" harness. I've got a '56 235 with no electrical units of this type.

4. I assume I tape these up and leave inside the loom?

Thanks

1, Ground light right next to terminal block. I copied this guys wiring ...pic...

2, The terminal block is there to tie the parking lights together. Why not just use it? ...my block...
I tied two wires into one end trying for a cleaner look.

3, My horn looks like yours. The connections are on the side not the bottom.
...1950 horn pic...
I used the bottom terminal for the ground, used the other for power.
A quick test will verify, I dont know if it make a diffrence. I added a relay for the horn.

4. hopefully others can advise

Your wiring looks good, you may want to consider heat shrink for your connections. double check your crimps. The more experienced guys advise adding solder

Should solder every joint and when two wires are connected use butt connectors with solder and heat shrink. If you do this you will be less likely to have an electrical problem somewhere in the boonies at night on the weekend without a flashlight. I used the worst scenario.
Also with you having turn signals and extra wires etc. I assume you have a generic wiring kit. You may have more wires to connect than the original terminal blocks allow. I bought my blocks from Nappa. They look neater, have more contacts, and are covered.
I don't remember the part number but I will post a pic Tuesday or Wednesday. I'm out of town until then.

My horn has the same connections except they are located on the bottom where you can't see them.

I see everyones point about soldering and shrink sealing conections. I've been doing this when I need to solder 2 wires together. I'll solder & seal the crimped conections too.

OK so today I grounded the headlights and finished up some engine compartment wiring. Crossed my fingers, prayed and hooked up the battery. Dome light popped on. Pulled the headlight switch the 1st notch and got parking & tail lights. Pulled switch to 2nd notch. Headlight low beams work along with taillights. Checked dimmer switch/high beams and they work great. Parking lights go off when headlights are turned on.

1. How do I get parking lights to stay on when headlights are turned on?

Brake lights don’t work. Switch is good. Have 2 wires connected to switch marked “Brake Switch B+” on left and “Brake Switch IGN” on right side connection. Brake Switch IGN wire is connected to headlight switch. Kwik Wire says makes no difference which way they are connected on switch, everything should work.

2. Suggestions for troubleshooting brake lights?

Directions say to install fusible link in line for wire going to solenoid. Wire marked “Starter Sol B+”. Based on what I’ve read you can install a 14 ga fusible link and this will protect up to a 10 ga wire.

3. Is this correct? Can I use a 14 ga link with a 10 ga wire?

Converted heater to a 12 volt blower motor. Have an orange and a black wire coming from blower motor.

4. What should the orange & black wires connect to? My harness does not have any wires marked “Heater” or “Blower”, etc. Pic http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1566.jpg

Here is a pic of the starter switch. It’s the standard 3 pole switch. Left wire is marked “Coil”. Center wire is marked “Ignition Switch B+” and the right side is marked “Ignition Switch Acc”. The directions are not totally clear. Pic http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t72/jss1956/DSCN1563.jpg

5. Is this wired correctly and is there anything missing?

Directions keep emphasizing installation of a neutral safety switch. Since I don't have one what do all of you suggest. Any idea on source & price?

Thanks

I assume your running an automatic, if not don't worry about a neutral safety switch. That's just for automatics to keep you from starting the engine in drive or reverse and running over your family cat. Come to think of it, what a great excuse...
Two wires out of the heater should be two speeds. The heater probably grounds to the firewall. Run a hot wire to the orange wire, if the heater fires up the black must be for the other speed. If it doesn't then the black is a ground, ground it.
Are you having fun yet?
Also you can use a 14 ga link to protect a 10 ga wire. It will blow before it burns your 10 gauge circuit.

Hey congratulations on diving in on this. You are doing great.

Question 1. They aren't designed to come on with the headlights. You'd have to modify your circuit.

Question 2. Do you have a turn signal switch that uses the brake lights?

It is correct that either terminal of the brake light switch is OK. And it is correct to have it on the light switch for power at all times. The other wire will run either to your turn signal switch or directly to the light assemblies.

#3, there's a chart somewhere on the internet. I forgot where I found it.

#4, Need to ask supplier.

#5, that needs to be checked with a meter.

There is a tech tip for converting parking to running lights ...click...

Is the blower motor you purchased a unimotor?

you will need a seperate underdash switch for your heater.
Here is how I did mine
...pic...
...pic...

OK so here is the latest...


All lights working except brake lights. I have tail light and turn signal wires running to the back in the rear harness. Tail lights work fine. Have one of the old aftermarket turn signal controls I will attempt to wire this weekend. Have 2 wires connected to brake switch. First wire marked “Brake Switch B+” on left and “Brake Switch IGN” on right side connection. Brake Switch IGN wire is connected to headlight switch. Looking at the wiring diagram it shows a wire from the tail lights to the brake switch. I don't have this now so do I add this or am I missing something?

Tested heater motor and is single speed. I have the old under dash switch that I will reuse. I don't have a "Heater" or "Blower" wire so what should I use and from where? Can I use a wire such as the wire marked "Electric Fuel Pump" wire? I know I just need a hot wire but not sure where to go for one.

I built a 5 bulb harness for the dash and ignition lights. Installed this tonight and found I have no juice on the "instrument" terminal on the switch. Turned the knob to make sure the lights weren't dimmed. What should I check for now? Am I missing something on the switch?

Next dilemma is the Ammeter. Wiring diagram shows a 10 ga wire from the battery/starter to the + side of the meter. I have connected a wire that goes from the fuse box to the starter "Starter Sol B+". But nothing exists to run from the fuse box to the Ammeter. Diagram also shows a 14 ga Horn Feed wire from + of Ammeter to horn. Don't have this wire in my harness either. Finally, the - side of Ammeter shows 10 ga wire going to Voltage Regulator and a 14 ga going to the ignition switch. Again, nothing like this on this harness. I do have a late GM alternator and have wired it up. Any ideas?

Someone asked is this is fun? It's fun when you are moving forward. I swear I'm seeing wires in my sleep. Thanks for the help!

How many wires dose your signal switch have?  this info might help diagnose your brake issue.

See Cletis post above....Your brake lights might work thru your signal switch.

My aftermarket 12 volt heater motor has one orange and one black wire like yours. Mine is a "Unimotor" brand. one speed, reversible.
If your motor is like this check the direction of rotation. if it’s running backwards simply reverse the wires. One wire power, other ground. You can grab power from your new fuse box if there is room. Check your motor label for amp draw and fuse to protect. The heater switch I posted gave me 3 speeds and is lighted

When your tested your bulbs did your ground them? The originals are grounded when placed in gauge housing. If you did ground them, and they didnt work you will need to meter your headlamp switch.
When you pull your headlamp switch out to the first position you should read voltage on instrument post of the headlamp switch.

Is your alt internally regulated?
Someone else might be able to assist you with your ammeter hook up. I’m not running one.

What helped me when I wired my 50 was to draw out each circuit on paper. It helped me visualize what was going on.

for your horn you can grab power off your new fuse box.
I believe factory set up came off ammeter post.
it soulds  like your fuse box is hot reguardless of key position. So your horn will sound key off
Are you adding a horn relay?
 
This will be very rewarding for you when its complete.

Oh and dont forget the bulb for your hi-beam indicator. you need 6 bulbs for your instruments/ignition
Good luck

OK latest updates & progress...

All lights working except brake lights & signals. More work to be done there later.

I called the tech support line with some questions for my harness on Friday. Wonderful jerk of a tech support guy: Impatient, demeaning, fast talking. Come to find out I have an 8 circuit harness. This is about as bare bones as they get. Lesson for the novice: When you are purchasing a harness and the guy on the other end asks you what year & make of truck don't tell him "It's a bone stock ’50 Chevy". Tell him exactly what you have, any accessories, any planned modifications, etc. Unfortunately, I assumed that my truck was “bone stock” and so I got a bone stock harness. This harness does not include a circuit for a heater blower. So first question:

1. Tech support tells me that I can run a wire from solenoid to heater switch for power. Must have 30 amp inline fuse. Is this correct and if so, can I protect line with a fusible link? I’m using the old original under dash mounted heater switch.

My ’50 3100 is running a ’56 235. I converted to a 2 wire GM alternator. Tech support tells me I cannot use my ammeter with this set up. Reading several posts it appears that I can run as follows:

1. The (+) side of the ammeter goes to battery solenoid/battery. Can this be a direct wire from ammeter to solenoid with a fusible link?

2. The (-) side of the ammeter goes to the (BATT.) post on the alternator along with accessories like the horn relay. Can this wire run directly off the alternator post to the ammeter and should I use a fusible link?

Ok, so I installed a pair of backup lamps. I built a harness to connect the 2 lights. I’ve got 2 extra wires running to the back from the fuse block: An “Electric Fuel Pump” wire and a “3rd Tail Light” wire.

1. Can one of these be used for power for the backup lights?

2. What type of switch do I need connected to the column to run the wire thru? Or am I way off on this process?

Finally, I’ve got a ballast resistor. One wire from coil going to resistor. Where does wire from resistor on other end go to?

Tons of work done this weekend. I’m slowly getting there. Thanks.

You should be able to use the fuel pump wire for your backup lights, it will be on whenever the ignition switch is on. The third brake light wire should only be used for exactly that. Its pre-wired connected to your brake light switch and only has power when the brake switch closes (when you step on the brake pedal.

I'll let somebody else chime in on the other topics, but I think the ballast resistor should be between a wire that is hot when the ignition is on and the + on the coil. And the ammeter scheme sounds correct.