The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Transmission Removal

I need to replace the clutch in my 1955 Second Series 3600. I was thinking about having a shop do it. I have the parts lined up for it.....unless there is a surprise waiting for me when it's opened up. That's why I'm thinking about taking it on myself.
This is the 4spd trans. I was thinking about building a wooden cradle for it with casters under it so I could move it out of the way. I don't have a transmission jack. I also thought about putting the truck's jack under the trans to have the ability to take pressure off the bolts and line up holes. Would this work? Will it be possible to move the trans far enough back to get at the clutch? What have others done? Is there a better way? Thanks,Scott

it's all in the shop manual, transmission section and clutch section - need to remove the drive shaft, take out the floor trans cover, pull the shifter, remove the trans completely .... you can rig something from above to sling the trans for support and lower it to the floor, beam across between the open windows or an engine crane in thru the door .... you may also be able to rent a trans jack [or engine crane]

Bill

Fortunately I have a Shop Manual and have been studying it. Are you saying that it might not work? I might not have enough room? I have thought about building a Tri-Pod sort of thing that would straddle the hole in the floor and use a strap to lower and raise it. Scott

Straps are dangerous if you are thinking of using what I think you are. When you release them it's all at once with no control. A come-along would be safer.

what might not work? any number of ways can be used to get the trans input shaft out enough to lower the trans, but you need to remove the transmission from the area, not just slide it back .... and what Vern says, use a 'positive mechanical helper'

Bill

It looks like my plan won't work. I figured I could just move the transmission straight back far enough to get at the clutch, but it doesn't look like it. I may have to save this one for the experts.........

I put an 8-foot piece of 4X4 wood through the open windows, and use a cable come-along to suspend the transmission. Removing the shifter makes it easier to manipulate. Bolt a short piece of chain to the top of the trans, using a couple of the cover bolts. You can suspend the transmission on the cable while you change the clutch and you won't need to drop it all the way out of the truck. I've changed a bunch of clutches that way, even out on the road with no solid floor underneath.
Jerry

If you use Jerry's method, have the transmission floor panel out, and you can guide it from the top and don't have to get under it. Thats how I did it for many years. But even with a transmission jack they can be stubborn to get stabbed. And I think that just depends on how your luck is running that day.

A couple of long guide bolts screwed into the top holes in the bellhousing through the ears of the transmission makes the job a lot simpler. 1/2" X 13 about 6" long is about right.
Jerry

You didn't say whether it was a three speed or four speed did you?
DG

I am sorry, I did forget that. This is the 4spd.

The only guide pin you can use on the SM420 is on the left top. It has to be a stud
because there isn’t enough clearance for a screw head of any sort:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137554020

The right upper length is blocked by the front boss for the hand brake and you are limited
to a stud that is 1 7/8” long:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137554022

Here are a couple of examples of how can remove or install the SM420. If you have
the room and a rental place near by or a friend that will loan you his, the crane is by
far the easiest as you can pull the seat cushion, swing open the doors and pull it out
or install it from the top:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/sm420_rebuild&page=all

The boat wench worked just great when I couldn’t get the crane in the garage because
of four foot of snow blocking the path from the barn to the garage. With that I lowered
it out the bottom onto a creeper and rolled it out from under the truck:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/transmissions&page=all

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I have a set of SM420 mounting bolts (with heads cut off). One that screws into the upper left of the clutch housing, as Denny describes. The other screws into the bottom right of the transmission (facing the clutch housing, on the lower diagonal from the bolt that screws into the clutch housing).

This works quite well. I/we have done the removal/installation from above (by hand and with a hoist) but I find that doing it from below, with a jack under the transmission, is easier for me.

Denny, what brand and color paint did you use to paint the transmission? I still cannot decide if I am going to leave drive-train parts au naturel (transmission and torque-tube/rear-end), or paint them?

Thanks,

As you know Tim, source lighting/monitors/cameras/computer programs in combination can all raise questions about what the color really looks like in person.
The colors show up in the pictures as several shades of gray and in some pictures it looks like some parts are the same as the engine. But.....it's not. All the cast iron that was bare from the factory, i.e., steering gear, transmission, rear axle center section, brake cylinders I'm painting with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel (ceramic) pn. DE1651, Cast Coat Iron. In person it looks pretty close to the original clean cast iron.
This is the stuff that Eastwood sells but it's available at any store that sells Dupli-Color.
I worked under a lot of new Chevrolets as a greaser and in new car prep back in the late 50’s early 60’s and by the time almost all of them were delivered to the customer, all the cast iron underside was covered with a nice even layer of surface rust. I don’t want that on my truck and I wouldn’t have wanted it on my truck had I been lucky enough to have owned it back in the day. The axle housing, drive shafts, springs, front axle, brake drums were all bare on delivery also but I’m gonna be using chassis black on them. I taint never gonna have a show truck, just want it 95% original.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I am liking the comments on how to remove and re-install the 4 speed. I had my truck up on the hoist and man-handled it out by myself, half controlled and half dropping it about 6" onto a bench I had ready underneath. I was able to put it back in using only armstrong power but I need a better way next time.

My armstrong power lift is no longer adequate for the job.

Ah men to that Tim, I'm in the same boat this week as our old compadre Woody, that is me old back has given out on me, can‘t even bend over to put my socks on. So I’m letting the machines do my work for me. But…….I taint ready to sell me truck quite yet. Mostly cus I’m still in love with her!!!

The only way I would pull one of these SM420 transmissions with it on a lift is with a transmission jack. They're just to dang heavy and in case it got away from you it's to easy to take a toe off, strain your milk or worse yet, break something off the trans.

Denny G

On my 51 1 Ton, I have removed the transmission a number of times to work on the clutch etc. I do this from underneath but if I need to remove it completely, I do it with an engine hoist.

From underneath I use a scissors transmission jack with a flat pan top. They are really reasonable to purchase. I made a small wooden base with pieces of 2x6 and chunks of 2x4. I made a U shaped base and stuck small pieces in the sides to fill in the contours of the tranny. I assembled it with screws. I put it on the jack, jack it up to take up the slack, put a couple of ratchet straps around and then I unbolt the transmission. Without the shifter I can roll it back, maybe lower it a bit and it creates all the space I need to do clutch work. The reinstallation is easy and it rolls into place perfectly.

Denny,
LOL LOL I thought I was the only one who used 'Strain Your Milk'!! I had heard it from my Grandma. Too funny. Thanks for all the advice.

I just put a 5 speed in a c-50, I made a lift that sat on the cab floor over the trans, I took the trans shift cover off & made a plate that bolted to the trans. I welded a flat iron where I thought the center was.
I driled several holes in it to get it to balance.
Put a boat winch on it to crank it up or down.
If I needed to move the trans in any way I just moved the lift assy.
This trans with a PTO was about 240# Worked like a charm.
If I knew how to put pix on here I would, It realy worked good.

mrcaddy, you did mention that it was a 4 speed in your first post.

After connecting all leads (including connecting the battery, of course), polarize the generator with the engine off.