The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop stovebolters near vancouver?

I live in vancouver bc and am just putting the finishing touches on "Pearl" a '51 chev 5 window 3100 with a '54 235.
It's running but there seems to be a misfire in #6. Compression is pretty even at 150 straight across.
I drove it around the block and it popped and sputtered all the way. I played with the timing and mix but nothing seems to affect the performance in 6
I think it might be valve not seating correctly. but in case it's a hear riser problem. I've ordered a new intake/exhaust manifold (with a working heat riser) and 2 bbl carter carb to arrive this week.
Any local stovebolters who can offer any advice? I'm aching to get Pearl on the road.
Is there any point in removing the side cover, is this going to offer me any clues?
I'm not too worried if I need to rebuild the head, but if there is a trick in the stovebolters bag of trick for loosening gunk or checking valve seating without tearing it apart first, I'd like to hear from you. I'm nearly ready to post the pictures of the finished Pearl.

Even compression means the valves are seating OK. You might run it with the rocker cover off & look to see they have the same up & down (opening) movement. That being OK about all you can have is a weak spark to #6. Thats a lot easier to check & I'd try that 1st. Doug

Those engines are really sensitive to intake manifold leaks. If the alignment rings aren't just so... Sounds like you might be on the right track. Also check the plug to make sure it isn't fouled and has the right gap. swap the plug wire with another to make sure your wire is good. If you have 150 lbs of compression across the board, it sounds like your valves are seating.

I didn't know about the possible effects of an intake manifold leak. I have a clear indication on the exhaust manifold gasket that there is a leak on the exhaust manifold (carbon on the gasket above the manifold). It would make sense that there would be an intake leak as well.
I will take a look with the rocker cover off and check the movement.
I was pretty sure that compression indicated a fairly good seating. I have performed all the recommended adjustments for timing and checked my vaccum (17+ if I remember correctly)
I will update after I get the new intake exhaust carb setup installed. Thanks for the quick info.

The exhaust valve pushrod may be off, if the exhaust
valve doesn't open it will misfire, but give you a good compression reading, pull the valve cover and see if both rockers are moving. I live in Richmond B.C., need any help? Private message me, Dave
It could be just a bent pushrod

coat both sides of both gaskets with no.2 non hardning sealer and use alinment rings i was doing an isuzi truck and it stated to use this sealer on the manifold i tryed it on my chevy 6 im sold works good no leak and it dosent burn away

I've often wondered about a non hardening sealer on the manifold. I've seen a couple of threads talking about it's use.
I pulled the valve cover and checked to confirm the movement of the rockers. All is well, I noticed some gumming on the push rods, but no slapping noises. I tried to check the valve clearance but not sure if you do it on the spring side or the adjuster side (intake exhaust). Either way, there doesn't seem to be a gap at all on either side. I had to run off to work, but tomorrow I'll follow the instructions of another thread about setting #1 with the timing mark and following the instruction in the manual. I'll keep y'all posted. Thanks GMCnut I'll be in touch after I get the new intake and carb on, hoping by this weekend.

If you rock #1 (both rockers moving at same time) #6
will be at top dead centre, intake valve lash (measured between rocker and valve with a feeler guage should be .010", exhaust .020". any less you risk burnt valves, any more =noisy valve train/poor
performance., Check manual to see if valve lash settings are correct these # are average for most motors.
Also check for carbon tracking inside Distributor Cap, poor/loose wires will cause arcing between the sparkplug boot and head, causing misfire.
Hope this helps

pulled the exhaust manifold off in anticipation of the new arrival. I've noticed that there wasn't a positive seal on the exhaust ports, and there was obvious carboning on the manifold gaskets. I'm hoping that the new manifolds arrive this week, so I can get a better reading. I'm pretty sure that there hasn't been enough pressure being built up with the leaking manifold, giving me a wonky reading.
GMCnut thanks for the tip, I will check the settings tomorrow as well as any carbonin in the distributor cap.

dont forget to make sure you have alinment rings i had a set made from muffler pipe they cut it free 1/4 inch wide will fit perfect cant remember the port size

To update my post, I've now got the old girl ticking along smoothly. It turns out I had more vaccuum leaks than the liberal budget. The new dual carter/webber carb I got was also at issue, we just couldn't get it to idle, so we switched back to the original rochester. A tweak of the timing and distributor and she's good to go.
Now comes the hard part, up here in Vancouver it needs to pass a vehicle safety inspection. That said, 1958GMCnut (if you are out there) what has your experience been? Can you recommend an inspection site that has experience with old bolts? It's just another cash grab before I get it in for air care.

I have never done a safety inspection on my truck, I will check with the boys at work who is recommended with old trucks, PM me as to where in Vancouver you are as to who is closest for inspection.

deano - B.C. safties [like for titling an out-of-province rig] are 'common sense' examinations for a sound functional vehicle - no rust holes in the floor to let fumes in, no broken glass, all lights work properly, good muffler, brakes work [and look] good, mirror present, etc ... simple, any certified station should know the rules regardless of vehicle age

Bill

You might want to pick up a shop manual at the Old Car Centre, in Langley. It is just off the TCH 200th St exit.

Have a shop manual (bible) and have been giving "Pearl" a solid over and under. I have to replace the drivers side vent window and get the new exhaust on this weekend. I'm not too worried but with the recent incidents involving farm worker transport workers, has put pressure on the shops to do more.
Everything has been replaced, all brake parts, all suspension parts, all fuel parts, all front end parts. It looks good underneath and runs like it should. So as soon as the new grill arrives, I'm off for the safety.
Was hoping to make the Cloverdale Hot Rod show this weekend, but it doesn't look like it's going to arrive before the weekend. I hope to be out to the first show in July.

Cloverdale HR Show???
Dang! I never hear about these things in time to make plans to get to em,... Ah well, always next year, maybe by then I can drive the car there instead of havin to cart it. If I'm lucky I can drive it there on the back of my bolt & show em both!