The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed POR15 and Behr exterior paint

In the 2005 tests, was the wood sprayed with POR15/Behr or brushed? Also, did you compensate for the thickness of the paint by sanding or milling the edges that the strips lay in? I've used POR15 on other parts and it does have quite a build-up.

I used the POR 15 and exterior Behr paint last year for my bed. Did not mill the planks before application. Used 2-3 coats of POR 15 and 2-3 coats of the exterior paint. All went well and as described on the Mar-k site. To this point (other than my scratches) the treatment has held up great. It went on smoother than I thought it would.

Did you spray or brush? Did you use any etch primer between the POR15 and Behr, or just sand a little? How long did you wait before top coating the POR15? I'm excited to be at the point of asking these questions after 4 long years!

Sorry forgot to add that detail. Rolled and Brushed. No etch primer. I think I waited 24 hours prior to the exterior paint, but it was not rocket science for me. If the Mar-k site suggested 24 hrs that is what I went with. I was very pleased with the applications, drying time and result.
I did hand sand the edges and all of the holes to round the sharp corners.

I've read the Mar-K test results, and have even painted my bed with the black exterior paint as their results support and they recommend. However, I ONLY used exterior paint- no POR 15. I don't understand what is the benefit of having an undercoat of POR 15. It has low UV resistance and depends on the exterior coats to protect it. If I have to maintain the outer coat to protect the base coat, then why not just use exterior all the way down? It's just wood.

Bill

All I know is that I have a few planks of wood that I use as a platform for painting, and some POR15 got on them and it is basically waterproof now and hard as a rock. I thought I read that just Behr gave up after a while in the tests? I guess you could touch it up, but I plan on using my bed for dump runs and Home Depot runs so I want something as hard as possible. I believe there still are no problems with that system even to this day. Is that right Mar-k?

Hamboneandco, did you use those foam rollers? Did it turn out nice and smooth?

I think I used foam rollers.

What I don't like about the Mar-K test is the Behr paint. They only tried black paint from Behr. I have used Behr paints and prefer not to. If I was going to cover my wood with black paint, I would use Kelly Moore or some other professional quality house paint. I am really happy with the Watco Oil that I have on my bed, unlike paint, I can put more on without worrying about it peeling, or scratching.
Chris

Defiantly go with Kelly Moore for the top coats. Their Dura-poxy floor and porch is tops. But go with either a stock colour(more durable) or go for a lighter colour.(also more Durable and shows less wear and tear..)Higher Sheen the more wear resistant._ Stock Colours use natural higher quality powder pigment.-Lighter (store mix) colours use less pigment So they have higher titanium oxide content making more durable.

I definitely want black since that is the factory color. As long as it is exterior latex paint, right? Or does it matter? That Dura-poxy doesn't sound like latex. I would hate to stray from what works in the Mar-K test without a thumbs up from them/him. Mar-K, what do you think?

A couple things you should know about the tests we did. First, we are not paint experts but we could not find any comparison test information for the various paint finishes available. That is why we did the tests, to provide a comparison of finishes and the results. There may be other finishes that are better, but the results shown by our tests are just that, tests. Second, the finishes chosen were simply some that were recommended by customers and some that we just wanted to try, such as the POR-15/Behr paint test. Note also, that in the first test series using Behr primer and Behr topcoat, the paint failed in a year. It seems the POR-15 improved the system.

The POR-15/Behr sample has not failed after being in the weather 24/7 for 4-1/2 years. I guess if other paint brands would last better, go ahead and use them. These are the only ones we have tested and the only ones we would offer any suggestions about their durability. As always, observe the paint supplier recommendations. POR-15 should be recoated before it is fully cured, as indicated in their instructions, for good adhesion.

If other readers have similar good experience with their bed wood paint methods it will be great to mention them here for all to benefit from.

Mar-Ktech

I just ordered a bed kit today...planning on going with the POR15 base application. How much product did it take. POR ain't cheep.

I used PPG/Omni black automotive enamel applied w/a brush, it's held up well for several years now. Truck lives outside.

jrockbush, the POR15 usually goes a long way on metal. Not sure about anything else. I hear folks get at lesst two coats on a chassis with a quart. On a fresh blasted chassis I usually use one good coat and use the rest on other stuff.

Just one warning. If you are using white oak, figure out a way to fill the small pores in the wood. I had problems with little air bubbles popping up through the paint. I would sand, add another coat, sand, add another coat...on and on. I must have 7-8 coats of paint on my bed wood! Now people don't even think it is real wood because it has lost 90% of the grain.

Tough as nails though with the POR 15 and Blackcoat from POR.