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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | Hi... Any help on why the Head Lamp switch is getting hot? The headlights become intermittent and when I reach under the dash to "wiggle" the connection to find the trouble I get burned.
Thanks you
Q | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | You have dirty contacts inside the light switch, or a partial ground at the dimmer switch. The headlight switch has a built-in circuit breaker that allows the lights to go out momentarily and then flash back on, rather than blowing a fuse and going out altogether. Inspect the wiring harness from the switch, to the dimmer, to the headlights for bare spots, and you'll probably end up replacing the headlight switch, and possibly the dimmer as well.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | you do need a shop manual Q  the light switch has overload protection on it, when the bi-metal contacts get too hot they open and cut the current to the lights until they cool, then make contact again so you're not left permanently in the dark .... bad headlight wiring causing excess current draw - wiggling isn't gonna fix it Bill | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 | In addition something as simple as a loose connection can cause high current draw and resulting heat. While you're standing on your head under the dash make sure all of the connections are tight.
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 239 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 239 |
Jerry is correct about this "... and you'll probably end up replacing the headlight switch". I had a similiar issue. After I found and fixed the short the headlight switch still cycled on and off. I replaced the switch and the issue went away.
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| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | thanks everyone.... I disassembled the switch, cleaned all contacts and reassembled. I also found a wiggly red Hot wire in the connector that plugs into the switch. As I wiggle it the lights go on and off. I fixed this. Lastly, I had replaced the High Beams with replacement Halogen High Beams but havent used them yet as I read they could be causing the "heat". I plan on using a ground braid from the block to the body under the hood to create a "GROUND" throughout the truck that has some integrity. Stay tuned....
Last edited by QuestarNLinda; 07/09/2011 2:00 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,675 | If you're running high-output lights, you're headed for trouble with the original-equipment swtich. The built-in circuit breaker isn't designed to handle that kind of load, and you'll get intermittent operation at best. I'd suggest using a couple of Bosch cube-type relays, one each for low and high beam, and just use the light switch and dimmer to trigger the relays. It's a very simple modification, and it also keeps the high-current circuits out under the hood where they don't have to travel over 10 feet or so of wire. Back in the dark ages, installing headlight relays used to be a popular modification, particularly on 6-volt systems where voltage drop was a problem.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | So.... I picked up a bunch of relays, a fuse box for the relay system, headlight and running light sockets and 12 guage wire. I'm going to start the relay process this coming weekend. I've looked all over to find a replacement connector for the original headlight switch. Anyone know where to buy the connector by itself? I don't want to do a whole Harness Job. Over the years of getting too hot the white plastic connector became deformed and some of the wire contacts are intermittent and wiggles in the connector. Any tips on how to get the contacts out of the connector so I can re-do them (hopefully in the replacement connector). Anyone have and old one lying around when they re-harnessed? Thanks for all the support!!
Best
Q
Last edited by QuestarNLinda; 07/13/2011 5:18 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | What year truck are you working on??? The AD didn't have a connector simply wires screwed to the switch.
DG
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | HI... Sorry bout that. It's for a 1960 Chevy C10 1/2 ton stepside. I'm shooting in the dark for the elusive connector.
Thanks | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | Got it... Thanks anyway.
Q
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | So here is what I've done... as I was getting ready to start installing the relay system I found that 1/2 of the strands of the red wire weren't attached to the metal contact within the headlight connector causing a heat buildup as the power was getting to the switch. I slid a small screwdriver blade into the contact and pushed the little barb that holds the contact in place and slid it out. I clipped and re-soldered the red wire contact and re-inserted it back into the connector. I also cleaned all the other contacts in the connector with emery cloth and contact spray. The lights work great with no intermittency or heat in the switch, even with halogen high beams on. If I have trouble in the future i'll then install the Relay system but Chevy designed a switch that worked with the lighting system... and it works.
Thanks all...
now on to the Gas Gauge issues...
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