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After replacing the gas gauge sending unit on my '52 gas tank, the gauge still didn't work. This was AFTER PUTTING IN THE CORRECT RESISTOR for 12V. So as suggested, I replaced the wire just to rule that out. Still didn't work. So again as suggested, I took out the sending unit and operated it by hand, wires connected of course. It worked- and then I realized what the problem really was. Yes the 1st sending unit was obviously bad- broken wire- but the holes on the new one didn't line up exactly to bolt it back in the tank. So while I was fooling around with making the bolt holes line up (elongating the holes)I lost track of the angle of the rod that holds the float. It was hitting the side of the tank!!! So the new sending unit did fix the problem after all. My lesson learned- ALWAYS CHECK THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE!!!

Hy Panhead 59 and guys the pattern on the screw down sending units only fits one way, and if the sending unit was assembled correctly that one way pattern would have positioned the float arm not to interfere with the side of the tank, hope that helps.

To bad they don't tell u that! I guess u are supposed to know by the service manual. Of all the treads I've read about the sending unit, I can't remember 1 saying anything about the bolt pattern. A simple note with the part would've gone a long way!! It's fixed anyway. Live and learn.

I couldn't find a service manual for a '52 truck so I got the '58 car manual since I have a '59 235 engine in my '52. Closest thing I found. To put it bluntly, these old manuals really suck!!! Poor descriptions and very, very poor pictures.

not sure why anyone would have to point out something like the sender being built so it can't be put in the wrong way without modification, and I doubt there's anything said in the manual about it - the year appropriate manuals are quite good, if you have some understanding of vintage vehicles and mechanics, but they weren't really written for owners who didn't have any familiarity with the company and the machine

you couldn't find a 52 manual because there isn't one, there's a 48-51` manual and a 52 supplement that covers the changes for 52, both available from most vendors, along with the assembly manual

Bill

What is the correct resistor? I was going to get a runtz.

I do not know is this is a Runtz or if can be properly called a resistor ; however, the price is right and it works fine in my Suburban.

What is the value of the resistor and do I put it in line before the fuel guage or can I put it near the gas tank?

It is placed before the fuel gauge and it must be orientated correctly. The unit from Classic Parts has a nut/bolt that you attach the hot lead to, and the other end of the resistor goes to hot-lead post on the fuel gauge.

http://www.unbroke.com/runtz_guides.html

It is not a simple resistor.

Thanks I just ordered it. Now on to the signal light switch and wires. Any help on wiring the front lights . The old wires are buggered up all the way back to the harness by the fender. To service the signal switch do I have to remove the steering wheel?

Holmesie54,

You have moved this thread in a different direction. You might want to post a new thread about the directional signals. In that thread, state if you have the original (or, original style) 1954 signal parts or if you after market parts. There are many people who have experience/knowledge on a variety of signal set-ups (I know the original-style 1954 signal set-up quite well).

Is the resistor "required" if using a 12 volt Guage?
BillyN

If you have a 12 volt gauge that's compatible with the sender you are using, then you're good to go.