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#75953 04/06/2007 4:31 AM | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 112 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 112 | got my remote kit from napa. when i drilled the block, drilled it 3/8", the kit came with 1/2" hose. i'm gonna use metal line. wondering what kind of line you guys that are using metal are using. i have some 1/2" steel line but bending that stuff ain't fun :mad: | | |
#75954 04/06/2007 5:17 AM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Is this an early 261? The '58-'62's use 1/2" NPT fittings. Make sure you don't go any smaller than 3/8 on the ID or you will lose too much flow.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#75955 04/06/2007 1:33 PM | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | I just finished a rebuild on my 235 with the 3/8NPT ports for the full-flow remote filtration system.
I located my spin-on remote mount on the firewall using the 1/2" nitrile hoses and Russell -8 fittings. Originally, I had considered the engine mount with a hard line option, but ultimately wound up with it on the firewall. I have some pictures in my "Tips and Tricks, 235 build" album. This option will allow me to add an external oil cooler on the inner fender.
I cut down a plastic bottle which slips under and around the filter for drip-free oil changes.
BTW....my truck is a daily driver and I've experienced not problems with this mount location. Hope this helps.
Dave | | |
#75956 04/06/2007 8:46 PM | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 582 | Darin; Depending on where you are going to mount the filter, makes the decision to user rubber hoses or metal lines easier. I used the NAPA kit as well, but did not mount my filter like Dave did. I put mine under and behind the alternator on a custom bracket. Originally used the rubber lines with heat wrap over them because they were too close to the down pipes of the dual exhaust. Took it all out and used stainless steel 1/2" pipe (seamless) to connect the filter to the block openings. Was kinda a pain in the *** to do with the engine in but "NO LEAKS". Feel better about not having the rubber in there as well. Some pics on my engine rebuild album on: http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer By the way, don't get scared about bending pipe. It isn't rocket science, don't do it if you've been drinking and take your time. I never did it before but it's kind of intuitive if you just slow down and examine each bend you're going to make and which direction it supposed to go. Copper is easier to bend than SST but make sure you have a really good set of benders like those made by Imperial Eastman. Good luck! | | |
#75957 04/07/2007 3:00 AM | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 53 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 53 | my 261 was drilled out for 1/2 npt from the machine shop and i bought a fram remote filter, i had lines made from the local bearing service that also does lines and they made me some nice flexable lines with cloth lining made for big rigs , i would use flexible lines if you mount the filter on the trucks body and hard lines would be an option if they will not be prone to moving like on the engine itself..
jeff | | |
#75958 04/07/2007 5:23 AM | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 112 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 112 | i mounted the filter behind alternator. welded a piece ov 1/4 flat stock to the end of alt bracket, drilled n tapped it. used copper lines for now, might go to the stainless in the future. now i'm down to a couple carbs, a hei dist, and gonna fire it up....just need more money..  | | |
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