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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 43
Q
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 43
What is the metal pipe next to the oil filter on 283 v8 in my 1960 c10? It comes from the upper side of the engine next to the oil filter and faces straight down next to the exhaust pipe. It puts out white smoke when idling, and most likely when driving, and is making the cab smell and the air "tastes" bad. Any idea what this is and how to solve this problem? Should it be extended to the rear of the truck or shouldn't it be putting out smoke at all?
Thank you in advance...
Q

Joined: Jul 2001
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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sounds like you mean the crankcase ventilation/ road draft tube ... it being obnoxious kinda indicates a worn out, poorly tuned engine, you might be ready for an overhaul and you should consider converting to a more modern PCV system .... the shop manual should have details of the optional factory PCV system that would be the easy temporary fix

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
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Q
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks... there is a 1 barrel carb on the 283.... do you know if this will accept a pvc system? I think the PVC valve comes off where the vent pipe is and... where does it hook back into the carb? Where I can get the mod?
thanks
Q

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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not pVc, pCv, Positive Crankcase Ventilation wink you might have a 2 barrel, but the 283 never had a 1 barrel .... there should be a port at the back of the carb base that you add a fitting to for the pcv valve with a tube to the same place the road draft tube is, need a different fitting there although you may be able to modify that to accept some rubber tubing instead of the metal down-tube - here's a pic of my current setup, there are different fittings available to elbow out of the carb and a suitable valve should be available at NAPA or similar, you'll have to fab it up yourself or find a 283 to scrounge it from - also should be some info in your shop manual

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Q
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks Squeeze...
I'll take a look at the carb. If it isn't a 1 barrel like the Prev Owner said, is there a particular model PCV valve you'd recommend? Also, since the draft tube is large (@ 1 1/8") is it normal to reduce the feed to the carb that much? This is all new to me...
As per your first reply, the engine sounds, idles and runs great! Some backfiring when changing gears but since I just got the old truck, I would like to have a good tuneup done but I wanted to take care of the Road Tube first.

Thanks again for the pix and arrow!
Q
(pvc was a rushing typo...)

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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it won't be a 1 barrel, if it is you've got a strange manifold or adapter - check your local parts store, I don't have the number on hand, just a small check valve that restricts the flow to the carb and prevents any possibility of losing vacuum or reversing flow .... the factory replacement for the draft tube looks about the same but had a fitting to accept the hose shown in my pic, only about 1/4 or 3/8 ID .... if you don't have a shop manual, see the 55 manual here, similar valve and setup

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Q
Wrench Fetcher
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Hey there...
I checked the carb and it's a GM 2 Jet #7015015 so I'm not sure but I think it's a 1 Barrel. there is a fitting in the back that may accept the hose from the draft tube... oh... the number on the top of the engine is 3746826.
Any thoughts?
thanks again


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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I suspect the 701 number is just a casting number on one of the body parts, the important number will be on a small brass tag held by one of the top screws, it ID's the exact carb [tags frequently long gone] - a 'GM 2 jet" is the common Rochester 2G, a 2 barrel not a 1 barrel, look down the bore and you'll see 2 "barrels" wink the number "on top of the engine" [on the intake manifold] is the manifold casting number of a 2 barrel intake, like this one, a correct original

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 43
Q
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks Bill. The brass tag on the center top screw of the carb is #7015015. I found a ref to it a few places.

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/TruckkitsC.htm

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/kits/CK022.htm

So i guess my question is still... if I put a pvc valve between the opening where the road draft tube connects to the block and the opening (that is currently plugged) on the back of the carb... will this eliminate my need for the road draft tube and the oily smell? or am i asking for oil pressure troubles. There's a breather on the valve cover, an oil fill cap on the other, and another breather on a pipe on the front top of the engine near the fan.

I guess an additional part of the equation is,,, when the truck is run after start up the oil pressure is around 60 and the moves up to 80 when engine reaches the speed to change gears. once the engine warms up the oil pressure is 40 and speed to change gears is 60. is that as it should be?

Thanks again.



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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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a PCV will eliminate the need for the road draft tube, and you won't have any problems because of the change, no telling if it will totally eliminate any smells .... yes that oil pressure behavior sounds fine, good pump and tight engine, about what mine does with ~20,000 on a full rebuild .... sounds like someone has done some mix-n-match on that engine, the tube at the front of the intake should have a breather cap on it and that's the oil fill point, the early 283 had no breathers or caps on the valve covers, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to have non-vented caps on both valve covers, the PCV will draw air in from there

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 43
Q
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks so much Bill... would you know the PCV i would need for this engine / carb combo?

Joined: Jul 2009
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5
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I believe that at one time they had a cap that fit where the road tube went into the block . It had a 1/2 hose fotting that went to a inline pcv valve that went into rear of carb.The ones i remember were on mid 60's corvettes. may try zip products or ecklers if they are still around. the other one put a plug in the road pipe hole at the back of the motor ( i think a freeze plug ) and change the filler pipe on the front of the manifold to a sealed cap with a fitting on the sside for a pcv valve. i liked that with a set of the old aluminum vette valve covers.

Joined: Aug 2005
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O
Shop Shark
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Here's what you need:

http://www.lategreatchevy.com/chevy-pcv-valve-kit-small-block-1955-1968.html

Install that and then eliminate the breather on the valve cover and keep the breather on the tube of the front on the intake manifold.


Mike
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1958 Chevy 3200 Fleetside
1958 GMC 100 Wideside
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Joined: Jun 2011
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Q
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Hi Mike... Thanks for the link! I'll be ordering it and will keep the updates coming. Thanks All!
Best
Q


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