The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop general engine questions

I have a 216 in my 46 2 ton that is seized and a 235 in pretty good condition also seized, what is the best thing to use to unfreeze the piston.

Also the 235 was rebuilt, the guy that gave it to me told me it was newly rebuilt but has been sitting so it needed work, when I torn into it all the parts are new and the 030 stamp is perfect on the piston and the rocker arm still has identification paint on it, but the problem is the block was cracked and re-welded, was this common? Can a block be repaired correctly or was the person putting new parts in a worthless block? I was just trying to figure out why? And would like to know if its safe?

Thank you for any help,
Josh

What was done many years ago is not necessarily the best route to go today. Years ago parts were expensive and labor was cheap. Lots of blocks were welded and they ran for a while. In today's times, I would never throw money into a welded block today. However I did have some welded blocks almost 50 years ago because that was the cheapest way to get up and running back then.

I prefer Kroil to unstick engines with rings frozen to the cylinder walls, etc.

www.kanolabs.com

Kroil won't repair rust pits, but it penetrates better than any other oil such as WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. Once you get the engine turning, you can do a good inspection of the cylinder walls for any possible serious rust damage.

If the block is welded on the outside, no big problem, even if there's a little weld porosity that causes a coolant seep leak. Use Marine-Tex sealer to cover the weld and stop the leak, after grinding the surface around the weld smooth for an inch or more in all directions. Internal welds that might allow coolant to get into the crankcase- - - -sort of risky to try to use those blocks!
Jerry

diesel fuel works amazing, i put it in my cylinders, let it sit for a week and a half and now it's actually running

it also eats away any rust that might be on the inside