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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | Hi all, As a new owner of a '60 Chevy C10 1/2 ton, I have a problem that I don't know how to solve or even where to look. I need "Stovebolt Chevy Guru" help please.
The problem appears to be a turn- signal issue but could be a wiring problem inherited from the previous owner. The conditions are as follows...
> Turn signal indicator in dash flashes at normal rate when signal arm is in center position as well as when moved to L or R position. > the front signal lights do not flash at all but do work when used as running lights > The left rear flashes always (like a hazard light) but the right doesn't * see note > the rear right break light works but not the left. * see note
* note: the harness from the console harness to the rear bulkhead connector has 3 contacts. The black (1 of 3) has 12 v only when lights are on so I assume this to be tail lights which connect to the smaller tail light lamp filament. I assume the other two (wires are violet and pink) contacts at the bulk head connector are (2) L break /signal, and (3) R break / signal lines (larger tail light filament.)
> With the flasher unit unplugged and foot on the breaks, the meter sees voltage only at one contact (2 of 3). > With the flasher unit is plugged in, meter sees "flasher" voltage on other contact (3 of 3).
so... the turn signal arm the same in all three positions... and the left rear light always flashes like a hazard light and only the right rear break light works but without signal light, and the front signals don't work at all.
To try and fix the problem: > Since there was no wiring under the bed, I installed three new 18 ga wires from the rear bulkhead connector beneath the cab (floor of the cab / driver side) to the tail light area. > All 3 wires check out with a continuity meter from inside the bulkhead floor connector. > I split the black line (1) to the small filament as the tail. These work fine. > I hooked line 2 to the L larger filament and line 3 to the R larger filament. > To eliminate socket grounding issues I installed separate ground wires from each tail light to the body with a taping screw and did the same for the front running lights to the hood. > all bulbs and each filament checked out good with meter. > I installed a new flasher unit
Where do I look next????
As a temporary fix I keep the flasher unit out and split the "break light" voltage on one line to both tail light larger filament so I at least have break lights but want the turn signals to work and for it to be working correctly.
All insight and help will be very appreciated. Best QnL
Last edited by QuestarNLinda; 06/28/2011 7:10 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | That model uses a remote switch that is mounted on the column behind the dash. It is operated by a rod from the mech. under the steering wheel. Check to see if the mech. is moveing the switch. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | Thanks Wrenchbender... I'll take a look. Any thoughts on the one breaklight / one flasher? thanks | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | another thought... I found that if I wiggle the turn signal lever i can make the horn honk..... sounds like a short to me! thanks
Q | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 33 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 33 | I had a similar problem with my '65 C10 and it was a defective turn signal switch under the steering wheel.
Leon Stallings Hartsville, SC 1965 Chevy C20 LWB 1965 Chevy C10 LWB
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 16 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 16 | I'm currently experiencing the same thing with my 61. No turn signals, horn sometimes honks when I move the signal lever, also my right brake light wasn't working. I tinkered with the switch thats bolted to the column and was able to get both brake lights but still no turn signals. I figured that I would have to pull the steering wheel and check the switch at the lever, but I haven't got to it yet.is it pretty simple to pull the steering wheel? I also have no low beam headlights, only high beam, so I have to get into that too... | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 43 | Hi Neptune. Here's was my solution.... There is a rod from the turn signal arm that moves that switch that is mounted on the steering column. The switch can slide up and down the column so the Left and Right signal arm linkage moves the switch to the correct position. I also replaced my flasher unit to be sure that wasn't a problem. Thirdly, I checked that I had voltage on the rear bulkhead below the drivers seat. Once I could had voltage here I had signals.
As for you headlights... I also had similar trouble. My problem was in the headlight switch. I took it apart and cleaned it. (careful of all the springs inside). you may also have a dimmer switch issue. Good luck Q
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 335 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 335 | front directionals need a good ground, pull sockets under hood, scrape paint off edge of holes, clean metal tab on socket where it contacts the hole in the hood. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 335 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 335 | by the way, there is an adjustment on that switch on the columm under the dash, you have to adjust it for "no" directionals when stalk is in middle position, It's really just a clip that holds the thin rod on the switch. | | |
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