The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Must II IFS in a 1934 chevy pickup

I have been looking into doing a must II in my 34 chevy pickup, but all the kits I find are for either a chevy standard or a chevy master. I don't know what the difference is in the two kits or if one of them would work for my pickup. Any information would be helpful.

you might try these guys
click here

also you might pm this member
here
seems like he may have their set up in his 34.........not many folks have a 34... good luck

Take a measurement of the wheel mount flange to wheel mount flange on the 34 and call someone like Chassis Engineering or Fatman. They are more interested in the measurements than the application.

Thanks guys,
I haven't heard of Chassis Engineering or Fatman, but from the looks of their web sites that is the direction I need to go.

chassis engineering is a good way to go, I forgot about them,
some of their stuff on my ride...

Here at Superior Glass Works we produce a reproduction 34-36 Chevy truck chassis. We have used two different Mustang IIs. The first, from JW Rod Garage, is a 'side mount' that puts your ride height just a few inches lower than stock. To get a lower ride, we use a Heidts MII for a '37-39 Chevy car. The outside frame width was nearly identical, but the car rail is a little thinner so there was a small gap to fill on the inside.

Check these out on my website: http://www.superiorglassworks.com/1934-1935-1936-Chevy-Pick-Up-Chassis.html

I can also supply boxing plates for that chassis if you need some for your project.

Brad
Superior Glass Works
www.superiorglassworks.com

If you want to run a Mustang 2 frontend (I would advise againt ti, too light, poor geometry) you may want to avoid Heidts. There's been a rash of balljoint and control arm failures due to Heidts using incorrect compnents and incorrectly installing them in their control arms. Seems that they've been using a Volare upper balljoint (follower design) as a lower, which would require a load bearing type. This caused accellerated wear and premature faulire, potentially leading to steering knuckle separation. There is also an issue of how they are installed. The balljoint they are using is designed to be threaded in, they are pressing them in. This means when they need to be replaced, you can't do it without damaging the control arm beyond reuse.

I have spoken with Heidts and TCI, and seen a detailed response from Fat Man regarding the ball joint issue. While I could get into the physics and mechanics of it all, the bottom line is the combination of parts they produce are tested to be strong and safe, and have proven so with many 10s of thousands of these in use for decades. Regarding the weight capacity, I agree that OEM Mustang II parts are too light for many street rods. The new, aftermarket parts, however, are much stronger and can easily handle the weight of a '34 Chevy pickup. At our shop, we have NEVER seen a failure as mentioned above, and I would not hesitate to use any of these Mustang II systems.

Brad
Superior Glass Works

Using a follower type balljoint in a loaded application is asking for trouble. They are simply not designed to work in that application.

FWIW, you can get a hub to hub C4 Corvette frontend that will do things the M2 suspension only dreams of for about $500 less.

might want to check out welderseries.com they are pretty affordable if you dont mind a alittle bit of wire burning!i got there crossmember kit(not installed yet)and searched the www for sales and deals on all the components.i'm sitting at around $1600 for a full front end, 11"discs,drop spindles,arms and brakes.

Only way to go if you want a nice riding and handling truck.

Has anyone ever used a kit from Helix? I can get a Heidts kit with rack and pinion for around $1,700, but the Helix (same parts) for around $1,450.

I have a Heidts IFS and would buy another if I ever needed one.