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#737471 04/08/2011 9:41 PM
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Ordered a pair of the corner bed strips that weld to the side of the box and hold down the bed wood. didnt notice till after the fact that they are stainless steel. Can I still weld them to the bed as advertised or is there something special you have to do for stainless?

Tripleeeng #737487 04/08/2011 10:58 PM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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SS will mig on fine

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
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squeeze #737516 04/09/2011 1:58 AM
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Just what I wanted to hear...thank you.

Tripleeeng #737612 04/09/2011 1:04 PM
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preferably use SS wire.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #738293 04/11/2011 6:44 PM
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Yes you can weld them on. It is also a good idea to clamp a block of aluminum or copper to the angle where it is being welded to reduce scaling and prevent melting of the stainless surface. See our angle strip removal and installation instructions below for more information about this technique.
http://www.mar-k.com/37-53anglestrips.pdf
http://www.mar-k.com/54-72anglestrips.pdf
http://www.mar-k.com/73-87anglestrips.pdf

You will also have to polish the weld mark out when you are finished.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Mar-Ktech; 04/11/2011 6:46 PM.
Mar-Ktech #738328 04/11/2011 9:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mar-Ktech
Yes you can weld them on. You will also have to polish the weld mark out when you are finished.
Hope this helps.

Is it possible to bond them on, bearing in mind many manufacturers use bond on car body panels nowadays?

Any comments?


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jockbolter50 - We have no experience with the process and we hope that someone who has used it in this or a similar application will share their experience.

Mar-Ktech #738615 04/12/2011 7:50 PM
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I'll post a thread in paint and body.

Thanks for the response.


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Tripleeeng #754606 06/14/2011 9:48 PM
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Hello,
I have a dumb question. Why do you have to weld them on? Were the originals welded or bolted to the bed sides? Thank you,

APV60 #754628 06/15/2011 12:11 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I am almost certain they were originally spot-welded on.

tclederman #754646 06/15/2011 1:05 AM
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I'm as certain as Tim that they were welded, never seen any originals on any year bolted

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
tclederman #754784 06/15/2011 3:38 PM
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yeah, they would glue fine if you didn't want to weld; panel-bond is amazing stuff-metal will tear before it lets go


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APV60 - tclederman is right, most of them are welded. 3" spacing between spot welds. You could use bolts, every 6", but that's a lot of bolts. Usually only rear fenders or structural members were attached by bolts to bedsides.

However, the strips are usually attached to the bed floor with bolts at the same 6" spacing. You could use bolts, but the bolts in the corners and double bolts at 6" along an angle strip looks kind of funny.

P.S. There are no dumb questions here, just the silly mistakes we make for not asking.


Dave Baird
1951 Chevy 3803

Foot starters are for Stovebolters and people who need a kick in the ...

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