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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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12 members (Fifty-Five First, Waveski, carbking, 52Carl, Otto Skorzeny, Danielbolt, Peggy M, Bill Hanlon, Lightholder's Dad, hapydirty, Guitplayer, cspecken),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,301 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 30 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 30 | 1954-Chevy, 6400, I wanted to bleed my brakes but I may have a problem. I have the shop manual for my truck but I am confused about the bleeder valve at the wheel. The manual talks about a valve (screw) all I can see is a hex nut that seems to be hollow. Is the screw missing or do I try to unscrew the small hex nut? How do I attatch a hose to the valve for the bleeding process? At this moment I am not worried about the hydrovac unit, which I am currently bypassing. Thanks for any advice.
Pappy | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | All the same: the bleeder screw, the hex nut thing with the hole in, the bleeder valve..
Usually they have a little nipple on them and you slip a rubber hose over it if you want to.
Grigg | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 30 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 30 | Only one of the hex nuts has a nipple end on it. Do I just loosen the nut to bleed the brakes? | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | Correct, just loosen and bleed as usual.
Or you could install new bleeder screws with the nipple on the end if you are concerned about your paint or making a mess. I find it's nice to use a hose and submerge the end in a bottle so you can see bubbles or not as you bleed, and with the end submerged you have a little more leeway on closing the screw because if you're slow or late it can't suck much air if the tube is already submerged in brake fluid.
Grigg | | |
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