The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline How do you remove the 57 3100 Brake Pedal?

Ok so how do you remove the brake pedal on a 57 3100 pickup?

I see there is a 3/4 inch nut on the bottom and that came off fine. But the pedal stem goes down through the master cylinder level/ brake lever and it does not seem to want to come out.

Is it pressed in or does it twist in?

Do I use a puller on the end to push it out or does it unscrew out?

I am trying to remove it as I thought that would be better in order to replace the felt seals in the firewall that the stem goes through and als thought it might be better for putting the new floor mat in.

The clutch pedal came out easy as it is a side bolt not an end nut.

Anyone know how to get it out?

And if I get it out how do I get it back in?

Maybe it is not worth it and I should just cut a slot in the felt washer and cram it up in there?

And do the same on the floor mat just just a slot big enough for the pedal or from the column hole to the pedal?

best to take it off - it's a taper fit, gets siezed in over the years - leave the nut on so you don't bugger the threads and take the BFH to it, a shot of WD40 or such can help, but once it breaks loose it just lifts off, then cinching the nut on pulls it back tight

Bill

Thanks Squeeze,

OK I tried a BFH but it just bounced around. Tried putting a block of wood behind it and the firewall and then thought maybe I should ask before hitting it any harder.

I will give it another try with the nut partially on there.

Good to know if I get it off I can get it back on since it is tapppered. That is what I needed to know.


All this stuff is starting to come together. Hope to have this back on the road in a month or so.

Interior redo, engine bay redo, new wire harness, new steering column and wheel and signals, PCV rework and weaping head bolts and all that.

One thing leads to another. and more stripping and painting that I had planned on.

Some day it will be started and back on the road for a while. Then back to body work and exterior paint.

I always put a block of wood between the shaft & floor. It takes the shock off the MC & stop light switch.

Right I did that too. I had to get my son to hold the pedal on the inside of the cab to help keep it from bouncing and then hit it a bunch. It is pretty tight around there and I already had the shift rods out of the way but between the motor, exhaust and steering column it was pretty tight and hard to get a good swing in. So it took about 20 taps and it started to loosen up and came right off.

Thanks guys. Now on to the replacing of the seals and the mat installation.

It has a tapper and a spline to keep the pedal alined. If you have an electric heat gun heat the part the pedal rod fits in, after soaking it for awhile with Kroil or something. Then a hard plastic hammer or brass hammer hit it. Also what works really good is to take an air hammer with a nice blundt anvil or flat rivet driver and hit it a few times, that will loosen the most stubborn parts. This is on the backed off nut like the other fellow said to do.

Thanks everyone. I got it off and replaced the seals and installed the new jute padding and floor mat. Have to wait on my son again to be able to tighten the brake pedal as it wants to spin while tightening. I tried pushing it to set it in the spline but it keeps spinning just the same. I just need another set of hands.

After that, I need to re-install the shift rods and control box when I get my new busshing from UPS today from Classic.

Then on to the spark plug wire brackets and re-install the intake manifold and test the new wire harness, recover the seat and on and on.