The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rocker Arm Oil Line Kit

You gotta be kiddin' me with this price!!? Anyone know of a source for these parts other than specialty auto shops?? Refrigeration parts or pluming supply maybe. I have no problem with some items we gotta have from these venders, but $25 dollars for 2 bucks worth of fittings is ridiculous. Oil Line Kit

I would think that two of the fittings are unique to the application.

I made mine, I don't remember exactly what I used. I do remember it was very easy to find/make the pieces.

That's kind of what I figured. I did find some double compression fittings online that look like they may work. I will look locally today and see what I can find.

The problem is that the line goes through the water jacket and there are fittings to seal the water jacket off. I wasn't aware that the tubing was copper. Was the original copper?

I think the original line was steel. Copper would work better as it won't be as likely to rust through when exposed to coolant. The specialty fittings that seal the coolant aren't totally necessary, but by the time enough fittings are purchased to bypass them, that kit price starts looking pretty good.
Jerry

Jerry,
I have always wondered what you could use in place of those fittings for the block. What else could be used?

I would use a fitting that goes from the male pipe thread to the female compression fitting, and drill it out where the tubing would slide all the way through. Once the tube goes all the way through the block, add another fitting that's modified the same way. Once the nut is tightened onto a compression ferrule on both sides, the coolant will be effectively blocked in the water jacket. Then route both ends of the line to the appropriate oil system connections.
Jerry

The line on my '38 is copper. I imagine a '42 would be the same.

I just went and checked and the line on my 38 is copper. I would estimate that it has been on there at least 40 years so I am guessing that it may be original. I wonder when it fails if coolant enters the oil. That would be pretty tough for the bearings.

I don't think that would be an issue since the part of the line through the water jacket never flexes, no chance of work hardening and cracking. '38 oil line.

The only issue I have after looking into this all day is the availability of 3/16 copper pipe and fittings. Not very common around my parts unless I am not thinking of an obvious supplier. For about 15 bucks I could adapt the oil distributor side and rocker side to 1/4 copper making parts and compression fitting common and easy to obtain anywhere. Someone on this forum has had to done this themselves with common materials. Hmmmmm.

copper pipe: Fastenal in Springfield or Eugene, OR
call for availability

fittings: NAPA Springfeld, OR
Call with part numbers for fittings ( Eaton - Brass Products Master Catalog )

I agree with Hotrod Lincoln - the kit price looks reasonable to me (unless time/travel has no cost). $25 above or $29 plus shipping from Jim Carter

The oil pressure would be higher than the pressure in the radiator with the engine running, resulting in oil in the radiator until it's shut down. Then it might be possible for coolant to get into the crankcase if the leak was big enough. The first symptom of a leak will probably be oily coolant. I don't see a problem with switching to 1/4" tubing, until the tube tries to connect to the rocker shaft connector piece- - - - -that thread is for 3/16" tube.
Jerry

yes it is not the ideal situation

Yes, and isn't the oil distribution connector also 3/16?

That end is fairly east to adapt, but the the oil connector in the rocker arm could be a real PITA. The easiest solution is to use 3/16" steel brake line tubing, if you can bend it to fit without collapsing the tube in one of the bends.
Jerry

Okay so here is what I did. Found 3/16 fittings and tubing FINALLY at a local store called Pacific Rubber and Fasteners in Eugene. The only mod to the parts purchased is the pipe to compression 3/16 fittings. I had to drill out the hole in the fitting with a 3/16 drill bit so the copper pipe would go all the way through. All fittings now are common 3/16 compression and will be easy and cheap to fix if need be in the future. Total cost....8 dollars and change! [IMG]http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/600/oilline.jpg[/IMG]

Here are a couple (almost) finished pictures.

[IMG]http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/6852/oilline2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2816/oilline3.jpg[/IMG]

This might make a great Tech Tip and could save fellow Bolters a few bucks.

Chris.

Good show! That's exactly the fix I was suggesting. The other style fitting that seals without a compression ferrule used to be pretty common when Ford used one in 1/4" tube diameter as a carburetor inlet and fuel pump outlet fitting. Since they quit doing that in the late 1940's, those fittings and the female-thread adapters they screw into have gotten harder to find.
Jerry

That would make a great tech tip. I couldn't quite figure out what you were modifying until I saw the photos.

Here is another point. The cost was stated as $8 versus $24. With the kit, if something goes wrong, it is another $24 but with this method it is another fitting or piece of tubing.