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#742822 04/27/2011 5:06 AM
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I'm going to have the pivots welded up on my 51 so I can change the pumpkin out.
Just wondering if anyone has a picture of the exact places I need welded?

Last edited by olememphis51; 04/27/2011 5:07 AM.
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'Bolter
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Check out this discussion

http://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/633004236/m/178102368?r=162103568#162103568

You may have to register with the site, but its free.

My preferred method is to buy axle seats for a trailer axle and weld them to the bottom of the axle housing.

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So I just need to have a set of spring perches welded on? I will check that out on the GMC web site. Have to go sign up.
Thanks.

Last edited by olememphis51; 04/27/2011 10:28 PM.
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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....think this one through before you decide "exactly" what you want to do.
Crenwelge is right about the perch blocks. Cut the old swivel joints loose, set the pinion angle of the pumpkin and then weld the perches on...get a set of U bolts and your basically in business with a nice permanent fix. A set of Dodge perch blocks will cost about 10or 12 bucks and you can pick up a set of u-bolts at Advance or some other parts house for about 20 bucks.
I had to do a little "engineering" on my shocks but all is well.

...I did not read the link above and this is just my OPINION...and what I did to my 52panel.


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Ok Alvin, this is exactly why I wanted some pics of this, because I don't totally know what your talking about. I am also taking it down to a good welding shop close to me, and I need to be able to tell them what I need exactly.
I still haven't got on to the GMC site to check that out yet.
I do appreciate the help. Thanks, Tim

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Ok, I reread your post Alvin, and I do know what your talking about.
So are the Dodge perches the same size as my rear?
Someone said I could leave the torque tube hooked up, and that would be the correct angle for the pinion.
I wanted to drive the truck down to get it welded and then drive it back home to start on changeing the pumpkin, and trans out. Is it ok to do that or not? Thanks.

Last edited by olememphis51; 04/29/2011 1:09 AM.
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olememphis, I do not have the perch block part # listed but Joe Wiemer "2many2count" gave me that tip. I know he has the part #. I had a friend of mine who delivers parts for Dodge to pick mind up. Cost was less than 10 bucks for the pair. Yes, they will work good. I liked them because they had 3 holes in the bottom of them and I was trying to center up the wheels in the fenders on my panel. The holes in the bottom let me move the rear end forward about 1 1/2 inch....or backwards, and still sit on the springs center bolt.
I'd recommend changing the pumpkin first and then setting the pinion angle...then getting your drive shaft cut to length. If you want to know how to measure for the drive shaft let me know. I have a sheet I can seed you.... if you want, send me an email and we can chat a bit on the phone. If you have verizon its free anytime as I am on it....or I'll call you after 9pm my time at night..... or free anytime on the weekend.


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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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Once the pivots are welded, no matter how you accomplish it, driving the truck with the torque tube still attached would result in no rear suspension movement at all. You'd have completely solid rear suspension. Maybe a VERY slow, short distance drive would be OK, but hitting bumps at any speed would bend or break something. Once the open driveline is in place, then the suspension is free to move again.
Jerry


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hotrod, that is what I was thinking but wasn't sure. The welding shop is only a mile down the road, but maybe I won't chance it. Thanks.

achipmunk, thnks for the info. I think you posted that sheet with getting the correct length for the d-shaft a while ago. I will need that for sure. I have talked to you on the phone before, about somthing, but I can't remember what. I might be needing your input on this job. I will e-mail you somtime.
Thanks alot,
Tim


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