The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Side Cover Leaking Oil

I've discovered a slow leak on the passenger side of my 216's side cover at the rear end of the block just above the starter. I've read that this can be a common leak area for these motors. Has anyone come across this and how have you dealt with it? Should I get a new gasket?
*I've noticed that the last side cover hole near the fire wall is missing a bolt and dosen't quite line up with the block hole.

A new gasket for sure, but while you have it off, check to see if it is straight. If someone overtightened the bolts in the past, it may be crooked.

Other ideas - when you put the cover back on, use some good gasket sealant. Another thing to do is when you put the screws back in to hold the cover and the gasket (with sealant) on, put a small amount of sealant or silicone on the screw before you screw it in. Let it set 24 hours.
It's all about the little places that the oil can escape!

Do not use silicon other wise known as RTV. Permatex #2 both sides, clean the gasket surfaces real well before. Can't have any missing bolts, if GM put a bolt there, then there was a reason for it.

Thanks for the tip! This is a learning experience for me. Should I permatex the bolts as well?

I wouldn't ever use silicone on the gasket, but I wouldn't use Permatex either. The best stuff is GM gasket sealer that you can buy at the GM dealership. Not only does it seal well, but you can get it loose when you need to and the gasket almost always just peals off of the part or the block with no trouble. But, silicone is the best thing to use on the screws. Regular gasket sealer will not work on the screws.

Thanks for all of the info guys. Dumb question but should I drain all of the engine oil to swap the side cover gasket or just half the oil?
Thanks

We all have our opinions, and here's my take on it.
"If" the side cover is straight, and "If" you are using a "new" gasket, and "If" the block and head are aligned, then a thin coating of Permatex #2 non-hardening applied to the "new" gasket to pan side will seal the side cover just peachie. A little note on Permatex: It's been used extensivly in the automotive industry, in all types of racing, on aircraft and as a gasket sealer in industreal applications since 1909. Properly used it is an excellent product to this day. I agree with the others, NO RUBBER SEALANT anywhere near the oil supply. The silicone rubber is meant to “form” a gasket not seal a cork or composite gasket. No need to seal the screws in my opinion, there is no reason they should leak unless the gasket is damaged or the casting is cracked.
Your oil level is part way up the Oil pan and is in no way anywhere near the altitude of the lifter gallery so no need to drain any oil out.
Last don't over tighten the screws, that just warps the side cover that you just spent an hour straightening.
It is normal for a cork gasket to "weep", mind you I say "weep" not leak. Cork is a natural cellulose material and therefore breaths, just ask a good wine connoisseur or vintner about how cork breaths. Best brand gaskets are a compressed composite gasket and not as prone to “weeping” as the cork is.
The comment about the head to block fit is because if the head was ever off for top end work, it's very possible that it was slightly miss-aligned when it was reinstalled. A little detail that a lot of mechanics neglect to check which will lead to a leak at that seam. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174499 A little dab of sealer on the inside of the gasket at this point is a good idea. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174692
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

As a side note make sure that the rear of the valve as cover is not leaking and oil running down the back of the block. Another thing I do is use some lacquer thinner on a rag to clean all gasket surfaces before you put things together. Don

Thanks for the tips Denny. Looks like the new gasket I bought is a "cork" style. I haven't opened it yet so I could still return it and see if they can get me a composite type. I'll also need to pick up some permatex.
Thanks again.

The cork is ok, that's what was originally there but it well in a relativly short time become saturated with oil and you will see dust collecting around the edges of the cover where it's damp with motor oil.
If I had the option I would go with the composite gasket.
Of course Permatex #2 is avalable at Every automotive store in the world and every farm supply and most big box stores that have an automotive section, and that's a bunch of choices fo sho!

DG