The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Derusting-Electrolytic

I've been using concrete re-bar instead of scrounging for scrap steel in longer lengths. The Re-bar is inexpensive and should be available at any home center.

Joe

Good suggestion... I use re-bar also.

Me too.

I have been doing some de-rusting part using the electrolysis method and I have found that the more surface area the electrodes have the better the process works.

My preferred method is molasses. Its more through and woks the best but is not very fast. See the Stovebolt tech tips for info on using molasses for de-rusting parts.

Walt Williams
La Verkin, UT

My preferred anode is some 1" heavy gauge expanded metal. There is lots of surface area, allows water to move through readily, and is lightweight and easy to lift out, give a flop against the ground, and all the rust falls out. Granted, my main tank I also have a 14 gauge bottom that is wired up to my negative cable so I don't have to wire or link multiple parts together, just make sure that the are sitting somewhere on the bottom of the tank.

My preferred electrolyte is sodium hydroxide.

Since I was replacing my front brakes with disc brakes and would not be needing the origional backing plates I used them for my salvage pieces. Took a piece of rebar bent at both ends and welded it to the plates. A second piece stick up out of the water to make for an easy connection.

Drop this down in the tub with the parts to be cleaned between them and apply your current. The current flow between the parts is strong and rust come off quickly. I let an exhaust manifold sit for about eight hours and was shocked. After washing it off it looked like new cast.

I have also found that adding a little LYE to the mixture works as an excellent degreaser and many old paints will dissolve or flake off as well.

I have been working on derusting a fender. I use a cheap stainless steel bow from the dollar store. It tarnishes a bit but otherwise it doesn't change at all. Even with the tarnishing the current doesn't decrease. I am using a children's wading pool and a battery chrger giving 6 amps at 12 volts. I am really impressed with the process and it is even lifting paint off the top side for me.

So your part is the negative terminal and the other piece of metal is plus?

That is correct. If they get mixed up the part will be damaged.

Works great, especially on crusty old manifolds.
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