The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 53' 3100 new subframe (maybe). Frt. Track width?

OK, here is something wild. I found a really nice mid 70's Mopar, torsion spring front suspension already welded to a late model GM truck frame. It's pretty cool to say the least. Splicing the two frames together would be easy because the width of the frame rails where I need to make the joint are almost identical. My concern is about the front and rear track widths. I have 4, Chrysler 15" steel wheels with 235-75R15 tires on them. This is about the size tire I would like to run on the finished product. The front track measures 59 ½ inches with these tires and rims installed. From outside of left tire side-wall to outside of the right tire side-wall the measurement is 68 ¼ inches. Can anybody tell me if I am going to have clearance issues or fender rub with these dimensions?

Now for the rear. I plan on using a posi-traction GM rear from a 1985 Trans Am. I measures about 60 inches from hub to hub. In order for me to use the Mopar wheels on all four corners I need to use wheel adapters to change the bolt pattern and center hole register. The adapter is not the problem. There is a company that makes high quality pieces using T6160 aluminum. Two adapters will add
1 ½" to 2” overall to the rear track. Can anybody tell me if this going to be a problem as well?

I really like this front end because it is different and the ride height is easily adjusted. I also like the big 11.6 inch disc brakes, power steering, wide frame rails, and heavy duty components. I have not committed to anything yet, but I could use some help making this decision.

Thanks to all that reply.

David

Using adapters to change wheel lug pattern dimensions requires one extra investment- - - -a good life insurance policy so your burial expenses are covered. It's much simpler and safer to get the axle flanges redrilled to the lug pattern you need, or get a company like Strange Engineering to build a set of axles with the right bolt pattern. We do it on round track cars all the time.
Jerry

That is good advice and I probably will go that route, but what do you think about the front end and the dimensions?

I don't have enough experience with IFS conversions to offer an opinion on that, but it sounds like an interesting approach. Once we've got a round track chassis in racing condition, we just tweak the sheet metal to clear everything, so clearance doesn't become an issue. Your system sounds a lot safer and more reliable than the sub-compact Mustang II system most people choose to butcher up a stovebolt with. I'm sure someone with more experience that I have with IFS conversions will come along and offer their input on this one.
Jerry

You don't say what the "late model GM truck frame is". That alone could be too wide track for the AD body and fenders. That Mopar IFS that you refer to is probably a mid '70's Volare. A lot of guys were installing them in the late '80's. I friend of mine has that set up in a '56 Chevy 1/2 ton pick up. It rides great. The Volare IFS requires more cutting and welding than the aftermarket Mustang II, IFS, that's why a lot of guys got away from the Volare IFS. It was easier putting in the MII set up.

Guys are also finding that some Volare front end parts are getting hard to find.

This was and is a real popular swap with the 53/56 F100 bunch and works pretty well with the Task Force trucks. As Wbrowne said it takes some serious trimming on the frame to get that front end to fit. At one time someone was selling patterns to use to trim the frames. I am not sure that they will work that well on an AD truck though due to the differences in frame width.

It's a rough go anymore on chassis modifications as one usually doesn't know what the skill level is on the other end of the internet line and while it is easy to suggest doing something the person on the other end may or may not have the skill needed to accomplish said modifications.

The only thing that I will suggest right off is one of the bolt on MII crossmembers that anyone with a half inch electric drill and a couple of bits, a tape measure and a hand full of wrenches can install safely. If a guy can't install that one he doesn't have any business fooling with these old trucks and maybe should find a different hobby.

I'm a bit leery of cutting a frame that already has had a crossmember welded to it and welding it to my frame. Getting everything squared away and aligned when you are done could be a real chore. First you have to make sure that the person who put that crossmember on that frame did it right and then you need to make sure that you get everything right when you use it on your frame.