The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Flatlander, VEW), 541 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,270
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#729384 03/13/2011 4:30 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
I know this is a lame question but what is the easiest way to remove the 216 on my 53.

I have not done this type of truck before. Generally I would remove the engine and tranny together. I am assuming if I leave the tranny in I need to put it on a block or leave the bell housing in as well as the support for the tranny is on the bell housing mount.

I am going to be matching up the bell housing and clutch assemblies that best fit my new 235.

I have the bell housing from the 216 and the 235 as well as the clutches for both.

If I remove the engine and tranny do I need to remove the grill to have enough room in front to get it out or will it clear the grille if the radiator is removed?

Just trying to save some trial and error time.

Thanks
Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
Hy rust bucket 53, it's better to ask questions if you can, computer forums were not available when I started in this hobby forty five years ago. Firstly you cannot remove the bellhousing from the engine until the transmission, clutch, and flywheel are removed, there are bolts retaining the bellhousing behind the flywheel. Some advocate for the front end sheetmetal removal, but it is not necessary. I would remove the transmission, and then remove the engine alone. The minimum you must remove is the radiator before you attempt to remove the engine. I hope that helps.

3B #729636 03/14/2011 1:09 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Thanks 3B,

I worked on it today and removed the radiator, all the wiring, fuel line, clutch linkage, I removed a few things that could have stayed but I think it will be easier to lift it out if the starter, generator, fan, manifolds and carb are not in the way.

I will have to remove my carpet, floor panel and shifter as well as the driveshaft and torque tube before I can drop the tranny.

Is it just the 4 bolts that hold the tranny on? Then I assume I have to slide it back several inches to disengage the shaft from the crank/flywheel and clutch assembly.

This was so much easier when this was just a frame on wheels...note to self next time put the engine you want on the frame before you build a truck around it.

Thanks]
Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 305
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 305
rust bucket
i'm doing the same thing to my 53 3/4ton
i already have the radiator out and the grill off i need a jack to take out the tranny
it'll be a few weeks before i actually get any further as work always seems to interfere with my free time

rolf


1963 c10
rgie #729741 03/14/2011 5:10 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
Hy rust bucket 53, Yes you are correct there are four bolts securing the transmission to the bellhousing.

3B #729956 03/14/2011 11:59 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
I really don't want to take the rad support or the grille out

I think I can get the engine out with the rad support in place correct?

I spent many days getting the perfect (or close to) alignment of all my front sheet metal. I don't want to risk any alignment issue after this job

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Originally Posted by rust bucket 53
I really don't want to take the rad support or the grille out

I think I can get the engine out with the rad support in place correct?

I spent many days getting the perfect (or close to) alignment of all my front sheet metal. I don't want to risk any alignment issue after this job

Rich


Yes, but you will need to have the hood off.

And, yes, it it always easier to put the engine on the frame first (in a "frame off" restoration). Then, put on the radiator-frame/radiator and "plumb" the engine.

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Tranny is out
Not too bad ... It took longer to pull up the carpet and remove the floor plate then anything else.

Tho only thing holding that engine in now is gravity

I can re arrange things and pull it out tomorrow evening

Thanks for the help and advice


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Yes Tim... I have no fear in removing the hood

I thought th old 216 in there would be good enough but I love driving this truck and the 216 just has no life left.

I decide to upgrade to a full pressure 235 for drivability...I was not sure if a rebuild on the 216 would be readable for many reasons

Live and learn


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Feasible nor readable


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 136
O
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
O Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 136
I read that and was thinking, what the heck is he trying to read on a 216, then I read your next post.
Your digits got a little tangled, huh? Haha.
I yanked my 216 and threw the 235 in and love it. Now I am going to put the 59 open rear end in, with the four speed overdrive I have and I'll really be singing then.

Last edited by olememphis51; 03/15/2011 4:30 AM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
olememphis51,

Tha typo was courtesy of the stupid spell check on the Ipad. It randomly inserts words if you misspell something and you have to actively check no if you don't want the substitution.
Since I type with 2 fingers and both eyes. I usually don't catch the auto edits until after I hit submit.

Anyway the tranny came out in 72 minutes. Not bad for doing it alone...and I did not drop it.

A was thinking of a T5 behind this 235 but I have not got the dough to make the transition right now. I currently have a 4 on the floor with a granny gear. Too bad it is a lot of work to do it later and wasted parts...clutch and clutch assembly.

I am sure the newly rebuilt 235 will be much better than the tired old 216.

I am set to pick up the 235 on Wednesday or Thursday.I will be wheelin soon!






1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Hey I picked up my rebuilt 235 yesterday and brought it home. It was more than I originally thought it would be but the guy gave me a written warrantee and told me he did everything that needed to be done for the engine to run right. Even hydraulic lifters and cam kit.

I had some trouble getting the old engine out. With the bell housing on, it took significant effort and contorsion to remove.

I had to chain the engine close to the front so it would tip back and clear the fire wall. Even with that I had to lever the front up considerable to clear the rad support.

After I clean up and paint the engine bay I think I will install the new engine and then add the bell housing, flywhell and clutch from below.

Also I took a chance and had the 235 flywheel resurfaced whle the guy was doing the engine. I don't think I can use it. The 216 clutch and flywheel won't bolt up to it. If I use the 235 clutch it wont fit the tranny. If all else matches I will go to Chelsea Clutch and see if they can set me up with a clutch assembly that works (I have to buy a new clutch anyway)or else I will have the 216 flywheel resurfaced and stick with all 216 from the crank shaft back.

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
I don't think you can get the bell housing in place with the engine in first. You might try bolting the bell housing to the mounts then lowering the engine into place. I've never heard of doing it that way but, who knows?


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Cletis #731055 03/18/2011 7:30 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
The simplest method is to remove front fenders and radiator support all as one unit, then install the engine and replace.

However I've removed and reinstalled a 235 in my 52 by only removing hood and radiator. I used a polyester sling around the whole engine (oil pan to valve cover) about 2/3 of the way back, thread it through the manifold so it can't slip forward. Then with that as the main pick point and a second on the front mount plate you can pretty near stand the engine on it's tail and remove or install it, bell housing and flywheel in place but obviously no transmission.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Grigg #731080 03/18/2011 9:22 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
Rich, regarding your flywheel/clutch questions-
You can have a machine shop drill your 235 flywheel for the 216 clutch but that may not be your best option. You said the 235 clutch will not fit your transmission. Is something not stock? Otherwise it should be the same and should work. The other issue regarding the 235 flywheel is the need for a 12 volt 235 starter.

I went the opposite direction with my 1952 235 conversion. I am using the 216 bell housing, flywheel, and starter (will be running on 12 volts). I had the 216 flywheel surfaced and drilled for a larger 235 clutch (pressure plate).

Chuck

Hookalatch #731977 03/21/2011 11:00 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
I have been puttering around and have matched both flywheels up they are the same size and tooth count. The 216 flywheel has a bigger clutch and a heavier clutch plate.

Both fly wheels will bolt up to the 235. I plan to use the 216 bell housing and the 235 flywheel and a new clutch set.

It appears that the starter should work as the teeth line up perfectly if I put the flywheels one on top of the other.

I took everything to Chelsea Clutch and had the guy there look everything over to see if I was missing anything.

I know the 54 GMC that this 235 came out of was a 6V stomp start originally.



1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Grigg

I agree but I cringe at the thought of removing the fenders. I will try your idea of a steep angle. Problem is I am doing this alone so it is hard to steer the engine on to the mounts.

It would be easier than trying to put it together under the truck

Rich




1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
I got the motor in but it was a little tight and I had to twist and turn quite a bit to get it in place. I wrapped it in blankets so thai I would not scratch anything.


I have the tranny in and will finish up this week and send in some pics. I hope to take a maiden voyage this weekend.

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 32
5
New Guy
New Guy
5 Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 32
Rust bucket: Formerly a bit rusty. Good job on getting that engine in. Hope your maiden voyage goes well. How are your brakes? take care, tom

56dump #734796 03/31/2011 12:57 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
56
Brakes are better than new... I replaced all the brake parts from the drums to the pedal the first time around. I have my granny gear it they fail.

I do have a brake assist that I bought form a fellow stovebolter but I have not installed that yet. Maybe once this engine is running I will work that next.

Thanks
Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,927
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,927
Your 53 216 with 4-speed came with a 9-bolt pressure plate and 10-3/4" clutch disc, if I recall correctly. Did you say what year 235? I think all 12 volt 235's have a 6-bolt pressure plate.
But you got that all together! Cool! Congrats and good luck on the maiden voyage. Have Fun...Safely!


Professional Novice
Frank50 #735935 04/03/2011 10:16 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
I finally got the truck running this weekend. It runs great! There is a new cam kit installed with hydraulic lifters so it is very quiet compared to the old 216.

It is running at 25 lbs. oil pressure and 180 degrees water temp.
I have a few small issues and questions.

1. I had to replace the battery. The old one was on the charger all day and could not even turn the engine over enough to raise the oil pressure. I replaced it.

2. The top end does not seem to get as much oil as the top of the 216. I have not removed the valve cover but there is not much in the way of oil when I look in the cap. I ran it for about 40 minutes and took it for a ride and it runs great and no funny noises. Should I see oil puddling when I look in the valve cover?

3. I am getting some coolant out the over flow which I am sure will stop once the volume equalizes.

4. It does not seem to have the power boost I thought I would get with a 235 over a 216. Is that because it needs to wear in? I would hate to think I spent all this time and money to just eliminate the babbitt pounding...besides i kinda like that noise.

Thoughts?

Thanks guys


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Oh and by the way...I actually cannot believe but I dropped the hood the other night. I put about 50 hours into that hood when I first did this truck and I dropped it on the rear conners and damaged both sides.

It was a controlled fall so the damage it not horrible but I was so mad at my self for not being more careful.... well I needed a project for next weekend.

What an Oaf!

Rich


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262

Rich,

Sorry to hear of the set-back.

If you do not feel the benefits of a high-pressure 235 over a 216, something is wrong. Give it a chance to break-in and then readjust/re-tune everything.

Regarding the hood "disaster": I keep good beer and good booze on hand (and good tea/water for my friends on the wagon) - to meet the specific tastes of local friends. When I have a small job that is safer with more than two hands, I call a friend (or a few) and ask if they want a drink (they get the drink after the small job is done). The cost of beer/booze/tea/water is minimal compared to the potential cost of a disaster.

Good luck.

tclederman #735957 04/04/2011 12:03 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,028
Tim,
It was a simple move that I had done a hundred times....That's the problem ...just a little carelessness...my daughter was right there and would have helped if I asked here...my neighbors first comment was why didn't you come get me...I just got careless.


I will wear in the 235 and see...Should there be oil visible looking into the valve cover hole?


1953 3/4-Ton Chevy

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

If it can be built ... It can be fixed.

RB53

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 2.990s Queries: 14 (0.053s) Memory: 0.7287 MB (Peak: 0.9059 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 11:44:52 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS