The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Moving the rear axle back

Does anybody have any experience in pulling the rear axle back?

I'm Looking to bring the rear wheels squarely into the fenders.

I thought I saw in one of these posts (although I can't find it a again) 1.5 inches

And I believe there was also a reference to three inches...should I just go with 2" and call it good...? :>)

any opinions on this?

Why bother?

The process isn't that complicated if you haven't finalized your driveshaft and your U-bolts are long enough. On my "adjustment" I chose to do it so I could use the unaltered stock S10 shortbed driveshaft and my "lowering kit U-bolts" (from AutoZone) were already on hand.

I used a 5" long chunk of 1" thick X 2" wide flat stock with a hole drilled (centered at 2-1/2")and tapped for a short 5/16" bolt whose head would slide up into the center hole on the spring perch. I drilled a 5/8" diameter hole 1-1/4" forward of the tapped hole, deep enough to accommodate the thru bolt of the spring pack. Additionally, the bottom plate needs to be drilled forward so everything lines up properly.

Cletis has a good point......you're the only one who is going to notice the move. If you have to spring for a driveshaft modification and new U-bolts and the time to fabricate the blocks and install.....well, it's your truck so it's your call!!!! But the: "rebuilding an old truck is not about getting to the destination but enjoying the journey."

Dave

Dave, says it right. Its what I did on my 37.

About the 52 I have. With the 15", 6 lug wheels I used the wheels just plain did not look good in the original location....or perhaps I should say I didn't like them!
So, I cut off the swivel joints, got a set of perch blocks from the Dodge place.

This may get to be more than you want to do but its what I did.
I pulled the springs,took apart & cleaned along with even puttign some polyliner in between them to help them flex as they did show some signs of pretty good wear. I replaced the shackles and while I had them out I turned the springs around. It should help center it but I still did not like it... Everytime I walked in the shop I said ugh.
So, since I had 3" lowering blocks it was a tat to low, for me, so I cut off 1 1/2" of the lowering block, then welded a 1/2" steel plate to the lowering blocks which now made the truck lowered 2". In that steel plate I drilled holes as Dave mentioned, after I had determined where I liked the wheels centered in the fender. With the 2" lowering you can get a set of longer U-bolts at Advance Auto....but if you lower it 3" the U-bolts are not long enough!

I will also add that I modified my bottom U-bolt plate to 'work for me".

I might add, for moondoggie, to be sure and check and double, check the measurements. It seemed no matter where I measured the driver side was always off about 3/16". Yes, I marked he floor and did a wheelbase check ect ect and it all said that somewhere over the years it must have been hit, in a bind or something. Nevertheless, I drilled that one hole 3/16" different from the passenger side and it now looks and measures dead on.....which I'll really find out when I get my front end man to do a 4 wheel alignment.... if its off, we'll just flip the lowering block out and drill a hole where it needs to go!

This is long moondoggie, but maybe it'll keep your gears turning until you get it where you want it.... which may be different from all of us????

I put a 56 Olds rear end in my 51 1/2 ton panel using
the Chassis Engineering rear spring kit. Comes with
new spring hangers, shackles, shock mount, super slider springs,
shocks, u bolts, spring pads and hardware.

It perfectly locates the rear end 2" rearward. Nicely centered in the fender well now.

Worst part of the job is grinding/drilling of the old rivets on the spring hangers.

mike

Squire, How long ago has that been? Care to share the kit from Chassis Eng.? Might want to try the "next one" like that.

Achipmunk

Just bought it last year....

I used the bolt on version, but "helped it" with a bit of welding here and there.
Be advised it will lower the back of the truck a bit. Since I have a panel truck
there is more weight on it...so, since I intend on towing a trailer
I am supplementing the new springs and shocks with a basic set of
Air-Lifts" when under load...

I have used other parts and kits from these guys and they make good stuff and know what they are talking about....
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page12.html

Squire
mike

Thanks for the info guys...

drive shaft and spring location isn't really a concern for me..I'll fabricate whatever I need.

I already have all the parts, just liked to see comments on the topic if others felt like I do about bringing the wheels into center...evidently, a few of you do

FLA...that is one clean looking truck

I'm all over the measuring thing....The truck as it sets shows the existing center of tube (rear axle) to be off 1" side to side..and no there is nothing wrong with the frame..it's dead on..front and back, side to side and elevation...

the darn rear end is pushed back 1" on the passenger side...