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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | The bottom latch on the driver side barn door does not work on my '57 Suburban. The latch mechanism is there, and it is clean, not all rusted. What is missing is the "bar" that goes between the handle and the bottom latch mechanism. This bar has at the handle end a "screw " head and at the bottom end some thread to attach it to the bottom latch. I know this because I have a very rusty one on an old door.
So I need a new "bar": is it available repro? I highly doubt it!
So, what can I use instead? I bet a good used one would be very hard to find...
What have you guys used? What are my options?
Thanks!
Last edited by wave1957; 03/19/2011 11:32 PM.
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | yes, not reproduced and yes, very scarce unless you luck onto some NOS - there's actually 2 rods, one up, one down - you're faced with fabbing up your own - if yours aren't good enough to get a pattern from I can dig mine out and send you pics w/ dimensions
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | try placing an ad in the swap meet. Lot's of guys with parts but they don't always visit each section. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | yes, not reproduced and yes, very scarce unless you luck onto some NOS - there's actually 2 rods, one up, one down - you're faced with fabbing up your own - if yours aren't good enough to get a pattern from I can dig mine out and send you pics w/ dimensions
Bill I feared that! My main question now is what size thread is it to screw into the handle mechanism? Also, I can see that the top rod is straight, but my old rusty bottom rod is bent at the bottom end: is it supposed to be bent, or is it old age? I will also check the swap-meet here... Thanks!
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | both rods are perfectly straight, likely it got bent from being forced while siezed - the 2 rods have the same ends, if your other is good enough to use it can be a pattern - also the ends have a pretty unique shape and a special rubber washerBill | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Bill, those appear to be like the ones on my 52 panel. Those rods can be made, even if you have to get a machine shop to make them. Both of mine are the same so I got the measurements off my old one.
For that little rubber bonnet you will have to make your own somehow. I know of no one that repops them.
Also, on my 52 there is a spring on each one of the top and bottom latches. Not sure about the TF models though.
**hope this helps in some way. I have a pic or two in my photobucket if you think it would help in some way.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | Archipmunk, yes, your parts look a lot like what I have on my '57.
I have everything except the bottom rod. And I thought it would be cool if I did not have to take the top rod out to find the thread size...
Thanks for the pictures, guys.
Oh, yes, my top rod does not have that special rubber "washer", but I think I can live without it!
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | They can be made from 10-24 threaded rod. For 55-59. An upside down domed nut (cut off top of dome to expose thread) will work as the "ball" end. Or thread a steel fishing weight or faucet ball or...... | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | Yes, thanks! I love the cut-off dome-nut idea, too! If it was not below freezing here today, I would be on my way to the garage right away!
And yes, for the lucky ones in Arizona, it is also snowing here today...
By the way, Bartamos, I so love your DQ panel, I love the colours, the patina, the (hopefully!) free ice cream...
Last edited by wave1957; 03/20/2011 4:24 PM.
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Working on the DQ now. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | So now that I have bought a threaded rod, I have just tried mounting it and I have a new problem, which is not really easy to explain!
My door only has the top threaded rod installed, I need to mount the bottom rod.
The threaded rod coming from the bottom hits a bracket inside the door and as a result, the door mechanism does not move freely. The rod hits a piece of horizontal flat steel that is part of the bracket inside the door, next to the door handle. So, this is obviously wrong.
So, I am now wondering where the top and bottom rods must screw: the shaft onto which is attached the door handle has 2 "cubes", with threaded holes which receive the threaded rods. On my Suburban, the rod from the top went to the "cube" that is towards the inside of the truck and I am trying to attach the rod from the bottom to the "cube" closest to the outside door skin. This is the set-up that does not work.
Is this correct? Or should I swap the 2 rods to the other "cube" in order to solve my problem?
Or, am I missing something else?
Thanks
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | the assembly manual, sheet 1-113, shows the rod to the bottom closest to the inside of the door [and tells how to adjust them], so yes you should switch them
Bill | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | Thanks, I am glad someone understood my question, it was not easy to explain...
OK, I am going to switch the rods, what a shame, they sure are annoying to install!
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | "Or should I swap the 2 rods to the other "cube" in order to solve my problem?"
EACH CUBE OR THREADED BLOCK IS FOR EACH ROD. by your above sentence it sounds like you think both rods go into one "cube".
Anyway squeeze has answered you question. you need an assembly manual, that's what they kept telling me until I got one, get one! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 289 | Yes, thanks, Bartamos, 1 rod in 1 cube is the way I had understood it; I have switched and it works great!
I do have the Assembly manual, but I am so used to the fact that Suburbans are not common, Suburban infos are not common that I never think of the Manual for a Suburban issue!
I will get it, with time...
Thanks guys!
'57 Chevy Suburban; '70 Chevy Impala.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | I know what you mean, It's all there. Good job!!!!! | | |
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