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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,294 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 | Anyone have any tips on remving the underseat gas tank for a 1937 chevy 1/2 ton.
Thanks | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 | There are nuts on the straps that go over the tank under the truck. I cut mine off they were rusted and I will not put the tank back under the seat.I have seen replacement straps in one of the catalogs that cater to our year trucks. I have read some jeep tanks will fit between the rails under the bed, but I will probably just buy an after market tank that is made just for that, just not that far along to think about it. | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 | So you didn't have to remove the seat pan, to get the tank out. it didn't look like there would be enough clearance. I think I can remove the nuts without cutting them. Looked at your truck very nice. Mine is all orginal and been in the family for repairs. Just trying to get it back running and in shape. | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 190 | I have been running into things along the way. Want to keep mine stock with few upgrades. There are a few others here that know tons more on these 37's Alvin P. is a big help and Joe H. also. Check out their gallery pics. | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | No, you do not have to take out the "seat pan". Follow Debra's drections and you'll be right on.
Debra, let me know what you come up with on the tank for the rear. I may want to be a copy cat. I've always wanted to replace mine but most of the repops I see mounted will stick down low and can be seen hanging under the truck. Sort of like it has hemroids!!!
| | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 | Thanks I will give it a try this weekend and let you know how it comues out. Thanks | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 | Any suggestions on removing the whole front clip without taking off the fenders? Thats another job I am trying to tackle to get to the front of the motor. | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Thinking your '37 is similar to my '40, fenders are bolted to rad shell, inner fender / splash panel which is bolted to frame, cab corner, and running boards. Not that tough to pull the fenders and may save you a ton of regret if you damage them. Speaking from experience, trying to lean over those fat fenders to do any engine work is a back breaker ! Pull them off and you can slide in around the wheel area real nice. | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 21 | I unbolted the rad shell from the fenders, and thought maybe the whole unit would come out, it appeares there is a lip holding them in place by the fenders. I thought maybe I could accomplish it without the removal of the fenders. Thanks for your help. | | |
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