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#729379 03/13/2011 4:05 AM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 368
J
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 368
Members: Trying to my due diligence on finding a new carb for Jaunita...Don't want to keep the roch.. Anyway, Iv'e been reading alot about the different ones for a 235. Leaning towards the holly 2 barrel progressive... I want to also do dual exhaust so, headers..fentons, willaims etc. but what I'm confused about and need some feedback is the warming of the intake manifold, I heard of warming it by warm air from the headers directed to the manifold, or water flow thru a plate at the manifold, So, who out there has these and how do they work for you...Pros and Cons please,this way I can make an informed decision.
Thanks


1954 Chevy 3100 5-Window
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Jimmi V.
Joined: May 2001
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Extreme Gabster
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I used the Jim Carter heating plate with my Fentons. I guess it works but I never tried it without heat.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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Depends where you live in California. Might not need extra heat.
I use coolant to heat my offy intake but I live in a cold damp place. Try running it without first. If it runs like crap then add some heat source.

Joined: Feb 2003
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J
'Bolter
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I have been running my 37 without heat since I got it togather and does not run too good when cold untill the intake warms up some,I have fentons on it and thinking about buying a heat kit but also thinking about finding a stock exhaust manifold that has been split but not all hacked up looking.

Joined: Feb 2001
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W
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Used water heat plate from landon's and with out it, it would bog down and stumble when cold. tried the manifold route but it carboned up.


Ron, The Computer Greek
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Jimmi,

The intake manifold needs to be heated (due to latent heat of evaporation - cooling that takes place when the fuel is vaporized).

When I learned that the intake has to be heated, I went with the coolant/plumbing solution aand it worked fine.

When I changed engines a few years ago, I decided to go with the simpler exhaust gas method, using two pipes from the holes in the Fenton exhaust manifolds to Jim Carter's plate. This works fine and probably heats it faster than using the coolant (and there is no need to fret about water leaks).

Joined: Aug 2010
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J
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Thanks alot guys, it's always better to get advise from folks who have already walked down the road your going to travel.
Thanks


1954 Chevy 3100 5-Window
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket

"True victory is victory over one's self."
Krav Maga isn't pretty ... but it works just fine.


Jimmi V.
Joined: Oct 2005
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The H/W is definitely the way to go. You'll virtually eliminate ALL the typical pitfalls of the leak-prone original equipment and have a "set-and-forget" carb.

As for carb heat.....as Tim mentioned....it IS necessary regardless of where you're oriented. The water-heat route is full of potential leaks which will leave you stranded while the exhaust heat, which requires no "valving" functions efficiently because of the firing order of the engine.

I would suggest you use Langfon's heat plate as he has located the openings for the fittings. I found the 3/8" compression fittings gave me plenty of volume and the copper line is easy to bend in your hands. I've got pictures of the setup in my webshots albums and have over 13K miles on the exhaust heat setup. Hope this helps you make your decision.

Dave


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Here are a few photos of a exhaust gas setup. I used malleable copper tubing in place of the steel-alloy tubing in the JC kit. (please excuse my sloppy tube bending)

Joined: Dec 2008
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S
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Exhaust heat setup definitely warms things up quicker.

cm


If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.
1965 Chevy C10

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