The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Installing a booster on my 61 for better braking?

Will it help,something I can do myself? Thanks,RAK

There is a guy on the 67-72chevytrucks.com fourm that fabs and sells brackets to put an power booster on your truck. I got the one for my 61 and will be installing it very soon. It uses existing hole in the firewall so there's no need for drilling.

If it has an automatic trans it should be no problem. If it has a stick shift it will have a clutch master cylinder that is mounted next to the stock brake master cylinder. It presents a challenge to install a power booster. Some of the aftermarket suppliers have the combination set up. Be prepared for sticker shock.
Fred

I have a 3 speed and I know the clutch has a slave,so where does that leave me? Thanks

Faced with the same problem I originally purchased the Master Power Brakes clutch cylinder bracket, which is set up to use a Tilton master cylinder on the driver side of the brake booster. A picture is shown here:

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=190.

I found this design deficient because it mounts the cylinder too low, requiring some type of Z shaped link to connect it at the factory height on the clutch pedal arm, or the pedal ratio will be off and/or risk blowing out the master cylinder from bottoming out. It also had quite a bit of flex in it and the clutch master cylinder ended up banging into the brake booster when depressing the clutch pedal.

So I designed my own firewall reinforcement plate and mounted a Wilwood master cylinder directly in front of the factory pushrod lever. Installing the clutch master cylinder at the same height on the firewall as the original master cylinder, maintains the correct pedal ratio and piston travel. Here’s what my setup looks like:

[IMG]http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7356/clutchcylinder01.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6290/clutchrod01.jpg[/IMG]

Since I’m running a 350/Richmond 4 speed I'm using a Novak slave cylinder designed for a Chevy V8/Jeep conversion.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm

The only way I can see doing this with a vacuum booster and a stock slave cylinder would be to purchase a 1” Tilton master cylinder, and either verifying your stock slave is 1”, or replace it with a 1” unit so it matches the master bore diameter.

http://www.amazon.com/Tilton-master-cylinder-remote-reservoirs/dp/B000K7GP6G

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/De...48574&An=599001+101961+50030+2030093

A Tilton cylinder is too long to fit between the firewall and the brake booster like mine is set up. Either the Master Power Brake or Captainfab http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=362375 adapter plate will mount the master on the other side of the booster, but you’re on your own designing a clutch rod. The pivot point on the pedal arm needs to be at the same height as the centerline of the brake master cylinder in order to maintain the correct pedal ratio and piston stroke.

The other alternative is adding a Hydroboost instead. I’m not experienced with this setup but it uses power steering pressure instead of vacuum to boost the brakes. It looks complicated, but can be used with a wild cam since it doesn’t require good idle vacuum. There are quite a few threads on the net should you be interested in pursuing this option. I'm not sure if this would help or not.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=376045&highlight=hydroboost

Check ABS in Orange, CA. www.abspowerbrake.com. They have a unit listed in their catalogue on page 74. It uses a 9" booster/dual MC with the clutch master mounted on the firewall plate with the booster on an bracket extension. The price is not listed.
Fred

Or you could kick it old school. The '61 one ton trucks (C-30) had a vacuum booster mounted to the frame under the driver side of the cab. Check your Service Manual for repair and hookup. LMC sells them brand new without a core charge for reasonable money and then you won't have to screw around with the Dual MC issue.
And yes, they do help. But your basic brake system should be right on the money first. it will not correct a bad setup. It only allows the use of less pedal pressure for the same amount of braking.