The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Clutch/Flywheel/Starter combo issues

I have read all the posts and get the difference between the 6 volt and 12 volt systems, ie. flywheel and Starter. I am in possession of fully functioning, correct 6v and 12v starters for my original 270 (have 55 1st GMC 3/4t 5-window).

Where I am struggling is that I have the 12v flywheel (168 tooth) but the clutches I am finding dont seem correct. The kits I find have pressure plates that mount correctly, but the springs on the actual clutch plate are hitting the mounting bolts on the flywheel (where flywheel mounts to Crank). I have been told that I either need a clutch that cant be found or I need to get a 6v flywheel. I need help! Any body got any advice? or know where iI can source the appropriate Clutch Kit?Or, since I really want to use the foot, stomp starter, I would love to find a nice 6v flywheel that I could buy. Any ideas would be appreciated.

The question that always seems to come up in this situation is, "Are you mounting the clutch disc correctly?" Not trying to insult your intelligence, but the clutch disc should have a "Flywheel Side" marking on it.

No offense taken to that suggestion...that is certainly within my abilities to do it wrong, but no, it is mounted with the correct side to the flywheel. In fact, just for grins, I turned it over and it still hits the bolts. The inset of the flywheel is just not large enough to accept those large springs.

I am told by the shop that I have to use a 10" or 9" clutch. Cant use the 11" that I would like to use no matter what. So...what clutch to use (part number and where to get it) or where to get a 139 tooth 6v flywheel?

Hy bluebird, did someone install the flywheel with regular bolts by any chance, flywheel bolts have a wider, but thinner head than regular bolts. I've never had an interference problem when all the correct parts are used, hope that helps.

I cant say if the right bolts were used or not. I assume so, they are the same ones that were on the flywheel when I got the truck and it was working then.

I was told by the shop that the OEM clutch did not have springs on it like the new ones do, instead they had some other sort of weights or some such thing.

So I am left with a desire to use my 6v starter and foot stomper, but still only have the 12v flywheel. if I can source a 6v flywheel, I know I can get the right clutch and pressure plate. Anyone have an idea of where I can find a 6v flywheel so I can go back to old school starters?

Try the Swap Meet area of site. Scroll a little further down on the Main Menu, or click on Swap Meet.

I did try the swap meet. Nothing specific there, but several folks selling motors. I did ask some of them if they had spare flywheels they pulled from old motors, but still no luck. Anyone got a line on 6 or 12v flywheels for a 270?

Hy bluebird, put an ad in the parts wanted forum, you'll have to tell us how many bolts retain your flywheel, as well as the number of teeth on the ring gear. And just to make you aware, there are twelve volt stomp starters out there, they were used on the six cylinder standard transmission trucks up to 1959 from the 1955B series.

I may have what your looking for. I have several flywheels 9,10 and 11 with the corresponding disc's and covers. I think we could at leats figure out what combo you need. send me an email to info@thoroco.com

Your truck did not come with a 270. It came with a 248 with a 6 bolt 6 volt flywheel. They were only used in 1954 and 55 trucks and are hard to find. In '56 they went to 12V.

However, I don't see why you can't get a clutch to work with your 270 flywheel.

I am wondering if you had your flywheel resurfaced?
I have seen a number of flywheels that had been refaced to the point that the springs hit.
The disc should not be anything special for your 12 volt flywheel.

You definitely get the prize for attentiveness! I did have it resurfaced, but it was truly just a light swirl put on before installing the new clutch. There was no meat taken off the flywheel.

Now, according to the parts book that the clutch and pressure plate were ordered from, this 270 flywheel could accept an 11" clutch, so that is the clutch currently having the issue. The shop says all their information says this 12v flywheel should have a 9" or 10" clutch. All I know is I want to get this thing on the road and I cant until I get the engine to turn the wheels, and to do that, I need me the right clutch kit for whatever flywheel I might use. Since I cant find that combination anywhere, I am really hoping some of you more experienced guys can help me find what I need.

Please, help resurrect this beautiful old truck....Please.

Thanks,
Tom

How many bolt holes are in the flywheel for mounting the pressure plate ?


Tim

6 bolts for pressure plate

OK, so I think I have an idea of what has been happening. There are spacers under the 6 bolts holding the flywheel to the crank, and these spacers are about .0060" thick. They are eating up the space that the clutch springs should have in the inset of the flywheel. When removed, there is plenty of room for the springs and even when the clutch is worn down, there will still be room.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...=a.166105163429913.31845.155184101188686

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...=a.166105163429913.31845.155184101188686

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...=a.166105163429913.31845.155184101188686

So, I am thinking that unless one of you guys that knows alot more than me (that is all of you) can tell me that i must have those spacers for some distinct reason, I am throwing them out and moving on with my project. I am enclosing a photo of the spacers as it would look when on the crank.

I look forward to hearing back! I really need to put this topic to bed so I can get the wheels turning on this truck again! Thanks in advance.

Can't see your pics- - - - -the computers at work have too many firewalls and filters. If you've got flat washers or something similar between the bolts and the flywheel, that's probably the problem. Even lockwashers can cause trouble, unless they're the really thin star-shaped ones. Try installing the bolts without any washers at all, and using some high-strength LocTite on the threads instead of a mechanical locking method. Most flywheel bolts have an oversized head to assure plenty of contact area between the bolt and the flywheel, and they're also much thinner top to bottom than a regular bolt head. Torque the bolts so they all carry the same amount of load. I don't have torque values handy for that engine, but someone should be able to give you a ballpark figure.
Jerry

Jerry, Thanks. That is exactly what I was planning, but really hoping for some confirmation from you experts.

I have never seen lock washers under the bolts? I have always seen the plates that go under two of the bolts bent up in the corner to prevent the bolt from coming out.

If the disc hits with the lock plates I would do as Jerry said and just use LocTite.

The thin-headed bolts and mounting plates described in this Shop Manual have been used/found in all 1954 235s that I have worked on, and on the 1959 and 1960 261s that I recently had apart.

There are no tangs to bend-up on the lock plates, so, in recent years, I have used loctite on the threads of the six thin-headed flywheel attachment bolts. The manual says to use new plates but I have never found these being sold - loctite is good assurance/insurance.

Here is a "thin-headed" bolt. I suppose if you have no lock plates, these bolts and lock washers would work fine (still using loctite - why not?).

blubird's attachment nuts look to be thick/heavy-headed (are they castle nuts)?

these are not castle nuts, but they do have a similar appearance, but it looks to be more an indicator of the type of bolt (just for identification maybe) cause there is no where near enough of a groove for a pin or other holder.

these bolts are at most 1/4" heads. I would call them Thin-headed in my estimation.

Tom

If I am not mistaken, those flywheel holes are not blind holes. They must be sealed and Loctite should do that for you.

I had a 59 3800 flatbed with one of the flywheel bolts missing- - - -the PO who "rebuilt" the engine before I bought the truck cross-threaded one bolt and left it out. The oil leaking through the hole in the crankshaft flange trashed the clutch in a very shiort time.
Jerry