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#717118 02/01/2011 4:50 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
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H
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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I had a brain storm while working on the cab of my 41, why not build a stand to mount it to and then rotated it. I'd appreciate anyone shooting holes in what I'm thinking of doing if it just won't work.

I was thinking of using 3 inch square steel, since that's what I have laying around, it's pretty light weight. I was thinking of using a piece in place of each frame rail, about 6 feet long, the cab would be bolted directly to these rails, then making an A-frame on each end with an attachement to allow me to rotate the entire cab while being held from the ends on a piece of pipe or some such thing. I realize I would have to build some pretty heavy tripods on each end but I have scrap steel to do it with.

If anyone could help me with this idea I'd appreciate it. Dave


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
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Master Gabster
Master Gabster
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Check this out. Click on some of the link's that are provided. May not be what you are looking for, but it should steer up some innovation.

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,886
My brother built a rotisserie for his son's 69 Roadrunner body out of two engine stands from Harbor Freight. Use square tubing or angle iron to connect the bases together firmly, and fabricate a cradle of some type to secure the cab to the rotating head assemblies. Be very careful to design the holding brackets in such a way that the cab isn't top-heavy in one direction. You should have it balanced where its own weight will keep it steady no matter where you turn the assembly. That's going to require that the pivot points are placed about halfway between the floor and the roof, with brackets fabricated to reach the original cab mounts under the floor.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Nov 2005
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Good idea Jerry, the tough part would be getting the center of gravity correct.

Been having a lot of thoughts about this thing,I looked at the one that was made of plywood, simplicity to say the least.

I just had another thought, how do I get to the areas directly under the hold down points the length of the cab, I could cut short sections of 3x3 square steel and put them directly under the cab mounting area, that would clear up everything but the hold down points. I don't know if the two rear hold down points would have the strength to be supported in such a small area instead of the entire frame rail.

I could drill and tap the 3x3 and bolt the cab to them, then just use big C-clamps to hold it to my frame, then one at a time remove them for cleaning under those areas.


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
my question would be "why bother"? put your time and labor into the truck, or are looking for another project to kill time and use up material?

to work on/refinish the bottom all you have to do is lay the cab on its back, once that's done it'll sit nicely on a couple old pallets or whatever, and all the rest is easily accessible ohwell

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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You've got a point, but won't I dent or bend things when rolling it up on it's back, there are the cab corners for instance that don't look like they would take that kind of abuse. Dave


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
worked for me, ain't so heavy a couple guys can't move it around without damaging things, just don't treat it rough - it's not like yer gonna be rolling it around town - when you need it on it's back set it on a moving blanket or such .... no wasted effort start to finish .... imagine the damage if yer one-use-scrap-jig fails wink

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,554
The way I build things it won't fail, I way overbuild, and I'm by myself 99% of the time so I usually have to work around problems, I have the time and don't want to damage anything worse than it already is. I don't have the luxury of help, but I do have time. Thanks for your help. Dave


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 240
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 240
I went a little different, I made mine to attach to the upper door hinge and the latch on the other side. Made a couple of oversize motor stands to rotate it. It rotates side to side instead of front to back, the door latch is well balanced and rotates easily by one person. The problem is when your done with your project what do you do with it, lot of money and space there.


You Learn more Listening than Talking
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,554
I've got 2 41's a chevy and a GMC and a 52 that need work, time will tell if I go at another one after doing one. If I don't use it I'll cut it up for the next project I get into. I'm hoping that the effort will pay off, I think it will since all my work is alone.


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,554
Pulled the cab today and put it on the frame that I built, I didn't have the right tools to attaach it so it will sit on the frame and the overhead hoist until tomorrow, so far so good, everything fits fine. I'm amazed how light the cab is. Dave


1941 Chevy
"First rebuild - complete!"
Follow the story in the DITY
1941 GMC resting peacefully
1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete
1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration
1941 Plymouth stock complete
1941 GMC COE in restoration process
Read his Project Journal
1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 58
6
'Bolter
'Bolter
6 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 58
Here is a link to a picture of the stand I built for my cab. http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac228/66rollback/project%2066%20rollback/P8130080.jpg I used a 22" radius for the corners and I can roll it forward or backward by myself.


'66 C60 body, '97 C6500 chassis, '07 LBZ Duramax with Allison 1000
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cxwv1C6Ay2oxYH7u7

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