The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Full-Flow filter mounting

I need some info on mounting a full-flow filter on my 1960 235. The block has been drilled for full-flow filter oiling.

Does the filter bracket have to be mounted lower on the engine to prevent line drainback?

Just want to get some verification from someone who has the setup on their engine. With open space at a premium and the header-to-oil line fit, I would like to get as much isolation from engine heat as possible.

Any info you could provide would be deeply appreciated.

Fla4hevy3100 - I did a quick search on the 'Bolt and found numererous inquires about this same issue -

Check Full Flow

Hey, thanks for the quick response! I've "searched" and found volumes of info on the by-pass filter (not applicable) and also info on the conversion and even pictures of the full-flow (not bypass) remote mounting both high and low. What I was interested in, was some input from someone who has actually done the conversion, mounted the remote filter high (above the oil gallery) and who had used that combination in a running vehicle. My concern was line drainback in a high mount position. Obviously this isn't an issue with the bypass system, but I would like some assurance that my freshly rebuilt engine won't be oil starved when cranked. Have you done the conversion, mounted the remote filter and run your engine with it mounted high? If you have, I sure would appreciate your input.

When I had a 235 in my car I ran two seperate remote mount filters. One was a full flow spin-on & the other was a by-pass cannister type. I mounted both at just below hood-line level for easy access & better oil cooling. Ran that motor approx. 120 to 140 K miles over about a 12 yr. time. Still no oil useage or weird noises. Sold it to another forum member here & built a 292 for more power. Just run a full-flow on it, put about 30 to 40 K mi.on it. Also mounted high. No problem.
I'm curious why you drilled the block. I just run bulkhead fittings thru the oil pan side. Sure drills easier. Also, re: the full-flow drainback concern-If you mount the spin-on filter in the 'normal' position so the open end of it is facing 'up' how can it drain back? Am I missing something here? Doug

Filters that are designed to be mounted in any position other than open end up will have anti-drainback valves. If they don't, it will be a problem. I would mount it anywhere, keeping the open side up, as has beeen stated. You can fill the filter before mounting it when you do oil changes when it is "right-side-up". I noted that you said "line drain back" in your post. The line voluum is inssufficient to worry about.

Thanks guys. I've seen a couple firewall mounts which skirt the hot header pipes. Still not quite sure which way to go with the lines. The full-flow system has me with 3/8 NPT fittings on the block and the remote filter fittings are 1/2"NPT. Wonder if it makes a difference if I go with 3/8" hose or 1/2" hole with reducers at the block or filter mount?

Any suggestions?

IMO the larger hose is always best due to less restriction. Remember, length & bends affect it. The filter alone is a restriction. BUT, I ran #6 (3/8) hose on my 235. Having installed all this at the engine build I have no 'before & after' numbers to compare. You don't say if you're running a by-pass filter also, but that also drops the PSI of course. I saw 30PSI on my S-W dash gage usually. Might be at 20 or 25 sometimes. This was running regular 100 mi. runs in temps at 115 deg. or more. One of my first trips was Yuma to Phoenix on 4th July, it was 118 to 120 that weekend. Ea. way 160 mi., came back in afternoon. Nice looking truck you you have. Hope this helps - Doug

Thanks Doug,

I'm going to go with the 1/2" lines to the remote filter. Will make my final choice on the remote filter location when I get the engine back from the builders. I've found pictures of both mounting locations and enough info so I'm not too worried about starving my new build.

I can relate to the "heat" situation....it's 83 today....the 16th of January!! Might even toss in an oil cooler when I get this little engine settled in. Thanks for the compliment and the info.

Fla54;
Did a full flow this way on my 261 but don't know if it would work on your 235. Check out the engine rebuild album for the filter pics.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

Your album has served as the benchmark for my truck!!!

I was hoping to sidestep the oil line to exhaust header clearance issue, by mounting it high on the firewall but have settled on mounting it down low. I may fabricate a sheet metal heat shield off the pan bolts and intend to use a reflective wrap as you did on yours.

I noticed on the 261, the block is tapped for a 1/2" NPT fitting while the "Tech Tips" calls for a 3/8 NPT on the 235. Don't understand why the differences in sizes but I hope to run 1/2" nitrile lines and go with the reducer to 3/8 NPT at the block fittings. Any opinions on this configuration?

Thanks for your response and any suggestions you would care to make would certainly be appreciated.

got my remote oil filter kit from napa today.. after looking around under the hood i've decided to ad about 2 or 3 inches to the back end of my alternator bracket and mount filter behind the alternater, lines will stay close to block away from headers and seems like it's gonna be a simple way to mount it..just wanted to let you guys that are looking for a place to mount yours have another idea.

Just to update....I mounted mine on the firewall after doing a little experimenting. Had some concerns about line drain-back but the needle on my gauge pops when you touch the starter.

The low mount would certainly be a much more direct shot...but I didn't really like the bend pressure on flex hose fittings and getting all the bends in solid pipe to mate up didn't sound like any picnic. With the high mount, I have a "catch-can" that slides around the old filter...no muss, no fuss, and if I wanted to tie in an external oil cooler I'd have to add a couple fittings. The down side was that they don't give the hose and fittings away.

Whichever way you go you're going to be happy with the increased oil pressure. I've got some pics (tips and tricks) of my low mount layout and my "final solution" which might help you get your system plumbed in to meet your needs. Hope this helps.

Dave

Dave - Nice looking work, enjoyed your pics. I retained a remote mount even when I changed to a 292 motor, where it hung down I'd have had to notch my car K-member. Aren't those tractor supply houses great!
Doug

looking at your webshots dave. my alternater is mounted where your ac pump is and thats where i'm mounting my oil filter. i came up with just about same bracket.

The stock 261 mounts the filter on the back end of the intake manifold. That hits the steering box so I mounted mine on the front end. It works just fine- once the air gets purged out of the filter you don't get any drainback and oil pressure comes right up. I used 1/2" jiffy hose and fittings from a Mr. Gasket kit and they have held up pretty well for the last 4 years. I put a slit piece of radiator hose around them to protect them from rubbing on things.

Darin367....did you see that I couldn't use the mount under the a/c compressor. It looked fine off the truck but had interference with the frame rails on the installed engine. That's why I finally went with the firewall mount. Keeping the lines as far away from the exhaust pipes was a major factor. Have gotten a bunch of positive comments on this position....something to consider.

Dave