The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Wanna help me get my 235 back up and running?

Little history, 235 swapped in to my 51 about 15 years ago. Ran and drove then parked.

It's serial number is 3835911. Based off what I dug up online, this is a 1954 235 that would have come in a car with a powerglide. That means its a full pressure and hydraulic lifters. Please correct me if you know otherwise!

-pulled the plugs and put a little atf in each cylinder. Let sit for about a week, turned engine over by hand and let sit another week.

-replaced old 12V coil with new one
-replaced plugs with new AC45
-replaced ballast resistor
-cleaned and gapped the points

Engine turns over with the starter pretty easily. Some gas dumped down the carb... nope... nothing yet. This is my first experience with points. After cranking i got some smoke off the points. Spark at the plugs is blue, but seems weak.

So I picked up new condenser and a new set of points and they are sitting in the box ready to go in. Also picked up some plug wires while i was at it. Anything i need to know so i don't smoke another set of points?

A couple people have suggested i check out the lifters and make sure none are stuck. Can somebody take me through this process? Now with risk of showing my ignorance, what do i need to look for with the valve cover off? Just make sure the valves all are opening and closing while i crank the starter? From what little i understand about hydraulic lifters, there is no adjustment (lash i believe). So is it either opening/ closing or not? ( Rocker Movement good, no movement bad?) Sorry for the dumb question. I just have never been educated on engine internals and have no experience.

Any other suggestions before i proceed to try and start her again.

Thanks in advance!

Is your battery a 6v or 12v. If not converted it should be 6v

Battery is 12V, Engine was already converted when i got it (12V coil) Haven't dug into the generator/ voltage regulator to find out whats there. Electric gauges aren't hooked up, heater is off and not using the lights. That should cover it right? It did run and drive with 12V battery when i parked it 15 years ago though...


I only have one wire going from the ballast resistor to the coil, so the coil is only getting 9 volts or whatever. Shouldn't the coil have some way of getting 12 Volts during start up? Ive still got the foot starter. Maybe i just dont understand how the ballast resistor works...

I can't answer those questions. If you remove the valve cover and crank the engine over you should see rockers moving.

hah...now i am quoting myself!

Anyways, should i have a 12V hot coming to the coil from the starter? So it gets 12V when the foot starter is engaged...?

Here's a pic before the new coil, orange wire from ballast resistor, yellow to the dist.

[IMG]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l23/PurdueSD/51%20chev/52cheb007.jpg[/IMG]

This guy needs our help

That carb that has been sitting for 15 years will need rebuilt. Once that is done, it will probably run.

You'll need a stomp starter switch for a 12 volt truck, 55 2nd. series or newer. It will have a small terminal for a wire going to the downstream side of the ballast resistor so the coil gets full battery voltage during cranking. Otherwise, the resistor drops the voltage down to 6 volts or so due to the starting load on the battery reducing the upstream voltage on the resistor. That's probably why you're seeing a weak spark while cranking. Try using a jumper wire directly from the battery cable on the starter switch to the + terminal of the coil and see if the spark looks better as you crank the engine.
Jerry

Awesome, thanks for the advice!

The carb rebuild is on the list. Just want to hear the engine halfway run to before tearing down the carb. I want make sure its worth putting more money in to. So its a squirt of gas by hand and stand back for now.

Thanks for the advice on the started switch, ill have a look at what Ive got this weekend. Ill give the jumper wire a shot.

Any advice on points? What caused my last set to smoke? Got a new set ready to go in, not real familiar with points ignition.

Thanks!

Points usually smoke if the key is left on without the engine running, and when the points are just barely touching.

If you have a match book you can use that to adjust the points. If you get it running for sure rebuild the carb. Post some pics if you need any help rebuilding it. I did my Model B and It runs like a champ now. I also Got rid of the points. But make sure it runs firts. Also check in the fuel tank. The fuel tub has a screen on it that will clogg up and not let fuel out. You can just use a fuel can to the fuel pump. O and check that to. The fuel pump some times will go bad after sitting and having old fuel in it. Good luck. Have fun with it.

Hopefilly you drained the fuel tank of the 15 year old fuel and put in fresh gas making sure all the fuel lines filters (if you have any) and the pump screen are clear are using fresh fuel.

Tap all the valves to make sure none are sticking before the engine fires, this will prevent bending a pushrod.

Now the points, they are simple and extremely reliable when in good working order. The matchbook suggestion above is a good one, but the lesson I learned the hard way is make sure the matchbook fits in the gap where they open the most, otherwise you gap will be too far apart and the truck won't fire.

Ha Ha thats funny. I did the sames thing when I first did it. My gap was way off. Ya make sure to have the number 1 at top dead center.

Thanks guys! All good info for me to use!

SWEET...I am just squirting gas down the carb by hand. The fuel line both to the pump and out of the pump aren't even hooked up. But thanks for the suggestion.

Hopefully ill have an update in a couple days!

Thanks again guys!

Woo hooo!!!!

Replaced the points, condenser and plug wires and....


Engine runs with gas continually squirted down the carb. best of all- oil pressure looks good and no scary sounds!!!!

Now its time to rebuild the Rochester. I found this awesome write up in case it helps anyone else:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...7188&showall=1

I could use some advice on a rebuild kit. Should i order one from car quest/ Napa? Classic Parts? Any difference? Are the kits serial number specific?

I know they made many different versions of the model B Rochester over the years.

Anyone?

I've gotten correct kits from NAPA, but you're right, there are different versions and it does help to have the correct original brass tag number

Bill

The Napa kit is about $12-$15 and is a fairly generic kit that fits a ton of years and vehicles. As long as you give them your vehicle, model, and 1954 for the year you should get the proper kit. If you need I still have the kit part number from mine and can get it for you thursday night.

NAPA
1954 Chevrolet Truck 3100 1/2 Ton Truck
Engines : 3.9 L 235 CID L6

Comments:
w/ Rochester Carburetor [BC, and presumably B?];
w/ Carburetor Type: R-1;w/ Carburetor # 7001374, 7002050, 7002051, 7003152, 7003863, 7003864, 7004468, 7004475, 7004476, 7005140, 7013029, 7013953, 7015011, 7015013, 7015021

Product Line: Echlin Fuel System
Part Number: CRB 25158
Price: $15.94