The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Noise

I just got a 41 COE truck running after a long time sitting. It has it's stock 216. I'm not sure whether it is mechanical or hydrolic, but stock for sure.

It starts and purrs like a kitten, but it is quieter when it first starts. Once he warms up the valves start ticking, mostly from the middle of the engine (3 and 4). That makes sense to me as when it warms up things loosen up. My question is what does that mean? Valve adjustment needed? Oil change (old oil/sticky lifter)? Normal?

I just started it up and it has only run about 10 minutes so I haven't changed the oil yet or anything. A warm oil change is next on my list.

If adjustment is necessary, can I do the ol' back off while running till I get a click, then tighten 1/2 turn thing?

Thanks as always!

A '41 COE, cool! The lifters are solids and will usually be a little noisy. I would do the oil change first. To adjust the valves the engine needs to be warmed up completely. I don't have a book for a '41 but the '51 216 book says to set the intakes at .006-.008" (hot) and the exhausts at .013-.015" (hot). My grandpa used to set them as the engine was running but I believe there is a way to set them with the engine off. Maybe someone else can help with that procedure. Good luck.

I would get worried if it isn't ticking, that means the valves are too tight. Ticking won't hurt anything.

It'll quiet some as it get to full operating temperature. The block grows faster then the pushrods as it warms, causing some valve noise. As the pushrods warm they grow too and the noise abates. Ten minutes isn't long enough to get to operating temp.

What Tiny said. If you're going to idle it to full temp, 20 - 30 min ought to do it, especially if the thermostat is working correctly. The thing is, not only does the coolant temp have to come up, everything else has to follow it to operating temperature, and be levelled off for a bit before you can get an accurate adjustment.
Adjusting to spec (by the book) is done with the engine shut down, immediately after the warmup so everything hasn't cooled yet. You can do it by ear with the engine running, but, unless you have plenty of experience you won't get the clearances as accurate as you would by the book, with a gauge. If it is your practice to idle the truck around a flat town, you can set it tighter, but if the truck works hard, set it looser(e.g., exhaust .015 rather than ,013)so that the engine can be run hotter without hanging up the valves. Too loose is noisier, but better than too tight. 4onthefloor is dead right about that one.

better to hear 'em than to smell 'em

Thanks for the info everybody. I don't think I want to smell them...

Hey Tomcoe; I knew I'd seen the procedure around here somewhere, wouldn't ya know the ol' Stovebolt page would have just what you need. Click on the Tech Tips link at the top of the page, go to Engine, and scroll down to Valve Adjustments. Voila! You're all set.

Ahhhuuu....I went to the trouble of looking thru past posts, but didn't think of tech tips...Thanks! Not the smartest snot on the doorknob...