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#707975 01/01/2011 8:20 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 150
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 150
I have a 1966 C10 I am going to start on the body soon and need to know if the cab is worth saving. There is not too my rust damage just the usual that everyone fixes. But the one thing that has me troubled is above the drivers and passengers heads there are one small holes each that are starting to appear and when it rains or the snow melts water come in through the holes. Would I have to cut the top of the cab off and replace it.

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
G
New Guy
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
Climberman, I have a 1966 C10 as well. My cab has a very small spot trying to develop in the cab over the drivers head. I also have a 1966 C10 donor truck and it has severe rust through over the driver and passengers head, right above the windshield.

I was stumped as to why this was rusting because there are no holes in he roof. I finally realized that the seam sealer in the drip rail has broken down over the time and is allowing water to seap in. I believe the inside could be repaired and then clean and reseal the drip rail. I am going to cut into the donor cab to inspect some more and I will keep you posted.


Richard Morgan

1966 Chevy C10 LWB Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 150
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 150
Thanks Gradads_66, The top of my cab looks fine too I will look at the seam sealer I have not heard of that. Could you take pictures when you cut into the donor cab?

climberman #712195 01/15/2011 11:20 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
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Posts: 1,552
Kiss of death...this damage is from the inside-out, so what has manifested itself as a hole, is much worse on the backside of the panel. The damage is, in fact, due to the drip rail seal sealer deteriorating, thus allowing moisture to wick through the roof cap & drip rail seam. In order to stop this process, the only sure-fire way to do so, is to drill out the spot-welds around the perimeter of the drip rail, allowing the roof cap to be removed. At this time, you can apply a rust inhibitor/rust encapsulator on the interior surfaces of the roof cap & the inner cab panels.

To exasterbate the moisture wicking problem, there is a mat of insulation in the cavity between the inner roof panel & the roof cap, that when exposed to moisture, wicks it up & holds it, since there is no air movement to dry it out. Also, making the problem worse, mice & other varmets get in this cavity, via the A & B pillars & makes nests, that also catches & holds the moisture.

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Posts: 150
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 150
Thanks a lot Shop Shark for doing all that work and getting back to me so soon. For me it will be better to start looking of a new cab. I hate to though because the last time I talked to someone about buying a cab they didn't ship you had to go pick it up. The closes cab I know about is in Texas.

Last edited by climberman; 01/16/2011 1:13 AM.
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 280
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 280
by shop shark did you mean 4-5-6 chevy trucks?


*UNDER CONSTRUCTION*
1953 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton-previously abandoned resto.

My Project Bolt

I hate when people leave their brains at home. Seriously when did critical thinking and customer service go out the window? How about common sense and striving to go the extra mile? Idiots, surrounded by idiots it tell you.
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 150
I am not very good at all this technology stuff yes I meant 456 chevy trucks


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