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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,406 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 32 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 32 | I'm trying to figure out what my best plan of attack will be for painting my 1965 chevy lwb. I guess paint procedure is what I mean.. Do I shoot it disassebled? hood,doors,fenders,box and inner fenders etc while off the truck and then reasseble? Also will it be best to use a single stage paint on the interior of the cab or base clear? I hope this makes sense...Thanks for any input!!! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 43 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 43 | depends what kind of job you want it to be in all honesty..if your just wantin some color thrown on it you could tape everything off and paint assembled..but if you want a nice job done it's going to take some disassembling
62' GMC SWB Fleetside
Why can't we just go back to the designs from when cars were unique and didn't all look the same?
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 280 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 280 | from what I have read best results come from dissassembled parts painted from the same batch of paint then re-assembled.
*UNDER CONSTRUCTION* 1953 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton-previously abandoned resto. My Project BoltI hate when people leave their brains at home. Seriously when did critical thinking and customer service go out the window? How about common sense and striving to go the extra mile? Idiots, surrounded by idiots it tell you.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 32 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 32 | Thanks for your input it's appreciated. The truck is now dismantled and is ready to go to the blaster. so I guess I'll paint it in pieces when the smoothing process is done and its ready. One more quick question if you don't mind? I plan on black epoxy priming the parts after blast is that the right way to go or do I have to etch prime it first, 'cause I had been told before, if I get the black epoxy primer that is for contact with bare steel it is alright to not use etching primer. Just wondering what your thoughts are on this. Thanks agian. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 66 | XtechX speaking for myself, all I do is use a metal prep / clean parts good /let dry /blow off lightly and use a good epoxy primer, prime your parts.If in dought try a small part and let it dry good and put some duct tape on it, press down hard and pull off fast to see if primer took I remember 30 years ago we blasted some lower fenders and used lacquer primer and after some time the paint and primer flaked off the blasted area paints have come a long way every painter has his ways | | | | | Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 44 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2010 Posts: 44 | Xtech, Black epoxy primer like PPG DP 90 is an excellent product. If you are stripping your panels to bare metal I highly recommend using a light coat of etching primer. The etching primer is fairly inexpensive and you will only need to apply 1 to 2 thin coats( you will be able to see through the primer as it is nearly translucent). Most etching primers have a 1 to 1 mixing ratio so you can mix small amounts to prevent waste. After it is dry just lightly scuff it with a red scotch bright, tach it off and apply your epoxy primer.
As far as painting your panels individually, you will definitely get a cleaner job ( no paint lines or overspray). Just be aware that spraying panels at different times can produce different shading, especially with metallics. If you can, it is best to set everything up and spray all the panels at once if possible. Best of luck with your project! | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 47 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2009 Posts: 47 | I like epoxy primer myself which can be tinted to better blend with your final color. Right now I tend to use a lot of single stage urithane. It is durable and if you want to try painting yourself it works great and it can be color sanded and polished back to a great shine. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 62 | If you are painting the interior with a metallic, rule of thumb would be to use a 2-stage. I ignored the rule of thumb and shot my interior with a single stage metalic, for me it turned out pretty nice. I work with guy who was in the business, and he said no, you don't "have to" use etch primer on bare metal when using a epoxy primer. It may produce better results to add the step and use a etching primer but it is not critical to paint adhereing to the metal. Epoxy primer works and then be sure to add a seal-coat primer over the top, no matter what you use. I don't know how to do a nice job, but I can tell you what worked for me.
I see a GM truck in your future!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 18 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 18 | Ppg makes a wash primer that you can spray on bare metal and let it flash. You can spray your epoxy primer over that and have no problems. | | |
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