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#705612 12/22/2010 6:01 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
I got up yesterday morning and began working on my truck again. I figured out that I was not getting enough juice to the coil because the wire to the coil was too small of a gauge. So i fixed it and the truck fired right up. Then I replaced the fuel pump and it runs great. Although I noticed I need a carb rebuild. gas leaks out of the carb.

Now onto the brakes!!!

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 239
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 239
Congratulations! It's always a good feeling when you finally solve a nagging problem. Good-luck with the brakes.




When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
-Unknown-
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
G
New Guy
New Guy
G Offline
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
Congrats on your progress. I have been dealing with a lot of the same problems as you. The wire to my coil had been stripped of all the insulation by rats. I replaced the wire and the truck ran great. Good luck on the brakes, I just finished up replacing my shoes and wheel cylinders.


Richard Morgan

1966 Chevy C10 LWB Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
Hi joshua;
sometimes a carb leak can be as simple as a piece of dirt stuck in the needle valve of the float & the fuel does not shut off& the carb overflows.
Roge.

roge #705897 12/23/2010 8:37 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
Thanks guys, thats what I was thinking with the carb. I going to take it apart in the next couple of weeks. Does anyone have any advice about rebuilding the wheel cylinders and master cylinder before I begin mine? I have the kits so I will start on them soon. Its a 3600 so its the 3/4 ton brakes.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Have a cylinder hone & good set of brake spring pliers. If you have a decent pedal now, it's a good idea to do the master cyl. first, bench bleed, put it back on & pump up the brakes. That way you won't get the lines full of air & it will be easier to bleed. Learn how to adjust the brakes as the Huck brakes have 2 adjustments on each wheel. Make sure the emerg. brake cables are free.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 105
Thanks wrench tender. Sounds like that would be a lot easier. I may have future questions about the adjustment though... I did not know about that thanks for the heads up.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 843
Y
yar Offline
Shop Shark
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Y Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 843
Joshua, one suggestion I can offer on the brakes is to see if you can find new shoes with asbestos linings or asbestos linings that you can have bonded or riveted. Asbestos has a much higher friction coefficient than "organic" friction materials that parts stores have carried for the last 30 years but the asbestos stuff still shows up on ebay.

I put asbestos brakes on my '32 Ford roadster street rod and it was like adding a power booster. Really!


Ray
yar #706775 12/28/2010 1:46 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
You won't find asbestos brake linings anymore, they have been illegal in the US since 1978, unless you happen to find some that have been sitting around forever or they are some chinese knock off junk. Better off using the modern semi-metallic brake linings, that are redily available at the local parts sotre, which will outperform asbestos any day.


Bill Burmeister

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