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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | hey let me first say sorry i dont have pictures to better explain. i just put different doors on my 53 and now it binds in the front when i open the door and the side with the handle isn't flush with the cab it sticks out about a 1/4 inch but the door still shuts and stays closed fine. which way should i move everything around? hinges and door catch? | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | That should help alot. Thanks | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Try shimming out your striker plate by about 1/8 inch. I know it doesn't make any sense but it worked for me. That link you were given only gives you a part of the manual's instructions for fitting your door... some important information has been left out like the amount of gap you're supposed to have between the striker and the latch which is no more than 3/16. Get a copy of SERVICING CHEVROLET TRUCK CABS from The Filling Station. It's part number DG-62. PICTURE 1 and PICTURE 2 | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | Yea i cant see how that make sense, but i'l give it a try. Thanks | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 324 | One of the ways I solved this problem was to make about a dozen small wooden wedges. Equally spaced around the door frame and temporarily held in place with masking tape. Looseley install the door,Tap,loosen & adjust in or out as required. This will give you an almost exact spacing and equal clearance all around. From the opposite side, go inside and snug door hinge bolts. The door should shut and line up ok. This worked for me, hopefully it can work for anyone having a hard time to get doors to line up and shut properly. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Sorry Woody, maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see how that would make any difference in the way the door would shut at the rear unless your door opening was a half inch bigger than it should be and it was only catching the edge of the striker. I think in 90% of the cases the doors and hinges have been sprung form fifty or sixty years worth of over opening them. You can twist the door frame around quite easily and although it's easy to spring the door hinges in one direction, it's a lot more difficult to spring them back the other direction. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Sorry Denny, but it fixed my door and I had the exact same problem. Don't ask my why or how but you can't argue with success.
There is only supposed to be 3/16" gap between the two parts and mine was too wide. According to the Service Manual that's what the gap should be and there were special shims to correct this so it must have been a critical adjustment. I have never seen these shims for sale anywhere so I made my own and it worked... strange as it may seem. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 843 | To get rid of the same problem with the door sticking out 1/4 inch.I replaced the stickers and latches.The old ones on my 52 were so worn no adjustment would help | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 231 | Im still having the problem, I got some more info tho so maybe someone has another creative idea, the door only sticks out around were the latch is, it sticks out from about the bottom of the window to about 1ft bellow the latch. The door contacts perfectly everywhere else, except when i open the door the door hits the cab between the fender and the door, but i think im just going to trim the door down a little. | | |
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