The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Battery not being charged

My 60 pickup has an alternator (internal regulator)instead of the original generator. It has always run fine until recently. After driving with lights on the truck started to cut out before I got home. I reached home and shut it off. Would not start after that. Replaced battery, had alternator bench tested and all tests show alt. is charging. I unhook neg. battery cable and truck dies. Doesn't that indicate the alt. isn't charging? Do I have short in wire going back to battery and what wire is that? I would appreciate any help. I have a wiring diagram but I don't understand how to read it.

1 Get voltmeter put on battery with engine shut down.
2 read voltage. Should be about 12 to maybe 12.5
3. Start engine ideally run at idle
4. Check voltage should be around 13 to maybe 14
5, Run engine upto about 1500 and check voltage. Should be around 14 to maybe 14.5.

Now then get an ammeter turn engine off. Pull keys. Put ammeter in series with battery. YOu should have no current.

If you have current then something is left turned on or you have a ungrounded wire ie hot with bad insulation. Now a matter of finding out which circuit is in start by pulling fuses until current stops ie meter goes to zero.


Dan Bentler

Thanks! I will do these tests. I don't know what you mean by putting ammeter in series with battery.

Putting the ammeter in series means that all the current must run through the meter to get to or from the battery. If you unhook the battery cable, put one lead of the tester on the cable end and the other on the battery post. Then the meter will be in series. You can also buy an inductive pick up ammeter and lay it on the cable, it will read current through the insulation. Another type has a clamp that goes around the cable and reads inductively.

You don't really need an ampmeter. A volt meter & test light will diagnosit for you. Take the test light & make sure there is current at the large post on back of the alt. & at #2 connection at the plug in connecter. #1 term should light up the test light when you turn on the ign although it might not be very bright. The large post should be connected directly to the battery through the harness or junction block. The #2 term may loop right off the large post or tied in back in the harness. The #1 comes off the gen. light on the dash or through a resister or diode when the ign is on. If all these tests are good it should work. Test it with the voltmeter like Motif said.

Yeah I know lots of people say you can run a 6 volt starter on 12. It is true. However the question now becomes "for how long??
From industrial electrician experience I have observed that motors operated within design parameters last a long time. If your goal in life is starter removal replacement and rebuild this practice will satisfy that goal.

ALSO
you can look for current when all is shut off with lite bulb. Just stick between batter post and cable either side does not matter. No glow then no current. Use 6 volt or 12 depending on battery voltage.

Dan Bentler

I performed the tests suggested here. I have 12.39 with key off. 12.15 with engine running. Does it make sense that current going into battery would be regulated to not overcharge battery? The battery does show close to a full charge. The only wires going to the battery are the neg. and pos. cables. Does the wire connected to the solenoid carry the charge to the battery. No drain was detected from battery when key is off.

Ok so 12.39 on open circuit is a pretty good battery under these conditions.

12.15 with engine running - you are NOT charging that battery - heck it is below open circuit voltage. Uhh was that with engine idling or at about 1500 RPM.

Uhhh you do have power to the regulator I hope - sure wont charge if not.

OK one side battery bonded to ground. Other side just one cable going to starter solenoid. Somewhere on this terminal should also be a terminal for alternator lead. Trace the big wire off alternator to whereever it goes - should be here. Look for flaky and or overheated crimp connections (about this stage I would be tempted to solder each and every one)
and get RID of ALL inline crimps used to splice - cut em out splice using Western Union and solder. Two wraps of Scotch 33 tape and heat shrink for pretty.

Go to Home Depot and get bottle of Noalox antioxidant
- yes made for aluminum connections I know
BUT works well on copper AND believe it or not on battery terminals. I use on ALL crimp and mechanical connections.

Dan Bentler

On mine I had a similar situation. I have a number of things that pull power (electric engine fans, stereo, Halogen lights, etc) and went through 2 100 amp and 2 140 amp alternators before biting the bullet and purchasing a PowerMaster 200 amp alternator from Jegs.

Had to modify the support bracket (cut it and welded in a 3/4 inch piece of steel to accommodate the extra size) but no more battery and power issues. Ammeter stays pegged at 14 most of the time and only when I have everything running (AC, fans, stereo and lights) do I see it drop to 13, even at idle.

Fixed my issue anyway for what it's worth.

For $15 a local alt. rebuild shop reworked mine and made it a 1-wire. That would be the cheapest fix.

I don't draw much power yet, truck pretty stock. Will consider when I get done though.

All my connections look good but will rework them. Truck was partially rewired after key was left one and burned up the coil, but that was many years ago. I assume my alternator has an internal regulator. My regulator has always been unhooked since I have owned the truck. I replaced the alternator once since owning it. I am starting to wonder if the alternator does not have an internal one. Is that possible or do all alternators have internal ones. It is an Ultima from O'Reilly's. It's been on there about three years. I don't drive truck much but battery was often dead so I replaced it . Hmmm. I did check with rpm at 1500. I appreciate all your help.

I may need to do that if my wiring checks out. Thanks

My truck is pretty stock so far. I may have to consider this option when I complete restoration. thanks

What part of Ks. are you in?
George

ole green - do what Wrenchbender suggested - I was having a similar issue and his test helped me diagnose the issue... my alternator and the voltage regulator were both fried.

-W

South of Topeka down by Melvern Lake

I did all the tests but no charge. the wring seems fine but will redo connections. I have had the alternator bench tested twice and both times tested OK. One guy at Advance Auto questioned whether it had an internal regulator. The external one on my truck was disconnected before I bought it. I will take the reg. back to O'Reilly to see if it does have internal reg.

Thanks

IF I were to test the alternator I would
1. Have a load - variable if possible.
2. An ammeter to show the output of alt.
3. Voltmeter to show voltage on output at varying load conditions.

IF the guy is wondering if it has internal or external regulator it seems to me he does not have any idea of what he has in front of him and therefore is unqualified ot do testing.

Dan Bentler

what size are your cables? are they big enough ? i have had an issue before with corrosion wicking from the terminal up into the wire from the battery. from the readings you have running, a little low; corrosion and or dirty connections could cause this problem.
by the way, i am in sabetha; north of topeka, 70 miles and my folks live in jacobs creek, just outside burlington; we should get together sometime warmer and shoot the poop

It's the guy at Auto Zone. Guess I should take somewhere else maybe.

Well you have been to how many parts stores? With what results?

Do you have an outfit that specializes in automotive generators alternators and motors? I would take the alternator and all associated parts (regulator) you think may apply to them. That way they can connect and test load the whole system. If they will let you stand back and watch - especially the load testing.

It may cost $20 but what is cost of aggravation?

Dan Bentler

I fixed my charging problem by installing a new ignition switch. Thanks to everyone for all your advice and help. I learned a lot on using my testing meter and how to diagnose electrical problems better.

thanks for the update, a lot of folks ask for help
and never respond back, I mean a lot........

thanks for being so respectful of this site.

Fred

i'm glad i read this, must have missed it back in december, i am having the same problem on my '63. wonder how changing the ignition switch helped. i am king of a electrical dummy so who knows.

hoggyrubber Same here. I have no idea but that was the only thing I changed. They are all wired together so must have been an open circuit I guess. Good thing is, it works now. Now on to maybe purchasing a wiring harness for the old girl. The choices seem to be endless so maybe someone can recommend the best one to use. I am leaning toward LMC and their set that is made for that truck.

painless