The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 64 C10 eng location

Needing some help with engine location on my 64 c10 as long as I have owned it been running a 283 with points and auto trans, I am now preparing to install a small blk 400 with an HEI distributor, I tried the HIE dist it fits but tight. The 283 has always seemed too close to the firewall in fact on the passenger side the firewall was dented to allow for valve cover removal (aftermarket VV covers a bit taller than stock) I also have a c20 with the 6 banger in it, and the mounting brakets that bolt to the frame are in the same location, I am wondering if this is correct? I was told this truck came with and V8. Does anyone know where the stock location for a V8 64 c10 is, or maybe a photo? I have photos with all the sheetmetal removed of the existing set up I can send if that would help.

The stock location is what you describe. The later 2wds(67-72) had the V8 in the front position, about 3 inches forward of where it is now, but you need 67-72 2wd frame brackets. This gives lots of room in back, but shift linkage & driveshaft mods must be done. Brian

Thanks for the info.

my dad set up my '66 c10.

he didn't like how close the hei was to the firewall when he was installing the 350 and noticed that the engine mounts could be moved forward a few inches for more room.

since he was also swapping in a th350 tran and having a custom drive shaft built it really wasn't that much more work.

the only thing i'm not sure of is how i'm going to get a fan shroud set-up since i'll probably need one when i finish my a/c install.

I have a 1967 C10 that I changed from a V8 to a 6 cylinder. When I installed the 6, it bolted up, but the fan was to close to the radiator and you couldn't remove it. After some investigation I discovered that the 6cyl had a different rear crossmember and you just reversed the front motor mounts on the frame. This moved the engine back about inches and put it where it should be. I have heard of people that took out a 6cyl and pyt in a v8 and have had to beat the firewall back to get the distributor cap off. I wonder if this is what happened to you. If it is a 4 speed you need to get the floot pan for the transmission since this will move your transmission also.
Jim

JM you are right for a 67, but in 63-66 all engines were in the same position for 6 or V8. In 67 GM started using the forward position on the V8 2wd trucks. The 4x4 kept the far back position for the V8 until 72. Brian

Brian
I guess you are right the v8 engines had a fan shroud to make up for the shorter engine.
Jim

Vito,
It would probably be better to abandon the HEI idea and install a Pertronics conversion to your stock distributor or use one of the aftermarket electronic distributors. The task force trucks also have the same problem with the engine in the stock location. Fred

Vito, What kind of trans are you going to use?
Bill, What motor mounts did your dad use?
Everyone, I am planning to swap out a 250/3 on the tree for a '72 350 and a 350 turbo in a '66 C-10, What will I need to do about mounting the trans? Cross members etc...
Also any tips on this install will be helpful and greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Hauss

I have a 66 with a 350 and I run the HEI set up. Yes I agree it is tight but it works. Once it is in you never have to mess with it.

I got two 64's w/V8s w/HEI, it is tight fit but does fit w/o firewall mods. Hauss, you will need a 67-87 auto trans crossmember & the crossmember currently under the bellhousing must be removed. Brian

In case anyone is wondering, I am using the HEI and am in the process of moving the engine forward 1 inch. Redrilling motormount, and crossmember holes, the drive shaft should be ok it was too long to start with ( I lowered the truck five inches ) I think it caused the drive shaft to move forward a bit, I will also have to make some minor adjustments to the shift linkage.

not sure what motor mounts he used, based on the pictures in the lmc catalog thy look like standard '63-'66 327 mounts.

i'm in the process of putting everything back together after a re-paint and don't like the way the ram horn exhaust manifolds center dump crowds brake lines etc.

i can't use the later model rear dump log manifolds with the current mounts so i'm thinking of swapping in the mount set-up from a mid 70's truck. comparing measurments it look like i'll have to space the top of the bracket about 1/4 inch off the top of the frame.

has anyone done the above? anything else needed?

Bill, when I got my 64 burb it had mounts & frame brackets from 73-87 truck. This gives you the clamshell mounts that won't come apart if they wear out. It can easily be done-need to use a spacer on top as you have noted. I have seen a stack of washers or better, a piece of 1/4" or so plate. Only thing if you are using the ram's horns is keep an eye on crossmember clearance, with the engine moved forward it can be tight w/straight down dumps- on the 67-72's some have angled back dumps. Brian

This is very interesting. I've been preoccupied with the P/S but remember wanting to get rid of the 292 for a 350sb. Now I wish I had the 292 back, but the swap so so easy and I guess thanks to a wreakers yard I only had to find and fit the passengers side mount bracket. Added a shroud since I was always overheating at stops.