The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black

I bought several cans of Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black to paint the frame of my 57 Chevy half ton. Of course now the weather has changed, and the temperature will not reach the 70s to 90s that they recommend for the paint to cure properly. This paint suposedly has a shelf life of one year if not opened (aerosol cans). Do any of you have real world experience with this paint, and if so, would you please let me know how you used it, especially how you dealt with curing time and temp. My shop is heated with a woodstove by the way. Thank you.

Larry
In Cold Colorado

Hi Larry, I used Eastwoods product on my frame last winter. Same deal, cold outside I use a propane heater I dont keep it above about 60 when I am working ( it was about 75 when I aplied paint ). I dont think mine fully cured untill this spring. When I was bolting on front end parts the paint felt soft for a while. I did like the finish and it is quite strong now. I have used the rest of a partial can I started over a year ago and it worked fine last week. I purchased the spay can trigger they sell, I really helps a lot. Best wishes, Paul

Paul,

Thanks for your reply. I thought I'd try heating up the shop pretty good and then opening the roll up door while I paint and then heating it up again after the fumes dissipate. I might have to spend the night in the shop to keep the stove going! Time for some good "anti-freeze" I guess.

Larry

Larry it's not that it won't cure but that it will take a longer to cure.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Besides shop heat, another trick is to beam high intensity light on to the frame area you want to paint. It warms up the frame pretty quickly and allows the paint to adhere better and cure quicker. Also, you don't need to prime with that paint, but the final finish is better in my opinion if you do.

Denny,

That's good to know. I've been having bad memories of a boat project gone wrong when I was a kid. We spent a good part of the summer cleaning up an old skiff and then when we coated it with epoxy we got the mix wrong and it never got beyond the tacky stage. I don't think we ever sailed that little boat again. So this stuff will eventually harden, it's just a function of time and temperature. At least that's what I'm getting from you and Paul. Well, first I've got to cut up a cord of oak that's been sitting, and then I'll see how the paint goes. Thanks again.

Larry

Drew,

Do you mean something like a halogen work light? The guy at Eastwood mentioned using a light, but I thought I'd need a whole rack of those to do it. I know that my two lamp halogen gets pretty hot. I did buy the primer as well. It looks as though this is a week long project what with priming, waiting for curing and doing one side at a time and then the top coat. Thanks for the reply.

Larry

Infrared lamps. Yes it will take quite a few.

Dan Bentler

Is that different from halogen work lights? If so, where do I look for them? Thanks

Late getting back to you. I used 2 halogen shop lights. IR lights are better, but I'm not a pro painter,so my halogens worked fine. For part time painting, I just thought the IR lights were too expensive.

I'm going to try to round up all of the halogen lights I can from guys I know that use them. The thing is, I would like to do the whole frame at once or at least one side at a time. I looked up those IR lights and they are pricey, but I bet they work well in a production shop.

Larry

I find the dual stand halogen lights work wonders at heating up a shop and ANY material within a few feet of it lol Just get a few of them set up on the side you're painting for a little while before you spray it. Let the frame and parts heat up a little, spray and just keep the lights on it for a hour or more. You shouldn't have any problems with the paint drying. I never do and I'm down to shorts and t-shirt after that long around halogen lights lol

Dubds10,

Any concern about the paint fumes? I was thinking that I'd have to get the parts warm, move the lights away or turn them off, paint, and then put the lights back on the parts. Thanks.

Larry

I used that eastwood chassis black in rattle can on my frame.

If I had to do it over I would just use rustolium satin black/thinned, sprayed with my cheap harbor freight purple gun off my pancake air compressor. I’ve had better results with the rustolium.

When you do use that Eastwood rattle can chassis paint make sure you cover everything you don’t want overspray on, including garage FLOOR. I had sticky garage floors for days.



Good Luck

DADS50,

I had considered going the Rustoleum route, but I got a deal on the Eastwood stuff and decided to go for it. I hear you on covering the floor etc. I have used Rustoleum on several parts that have held up very well over the years. We'll see how this goes.

larry

As far as fumes go, we leave the bay door for the shop open if we do any painting. If you're referring to fumes and halogens lights and a possible explosion, slim chance that will happen. I'm a Fire and Explosion Investigator...I don't worry about it lol

I find the Rustoleum works great as well. Has a nice finish to it, but like everything. Make sure to cover what you don't want painted.

Thanks. I guess I have about enough information to be dangerous now. I've got a few things to do to the frame before paint (replace spring hanger bushings and drill some holes for the NAPCO transfer case mounts and the shifter), but it won't be long now. I'll post my results.

Larry