The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop T5 install problem

I'm installing a T5 in my 59' 3200 w/235. First time installation for me.....
I have cut down the T5 to match the old 3 speed and installed a new clutch disc with correct dimensions...Problem...(motor in truck now) the tranny will go on but lacks just under 1/2" to fully seat. I have spent a few hours on my back trying to figure out the problem. All my measurements say it should fit. Throwout bearing is sliding freely...plenty clearance all around outside of tranny...clutch was lined up with the special tool...

I did have the T5 installed sans clutch while the motor was on the jack. It fit fine then though I failed to test it out with the clutch while on the stand. With only 1/2" to go, the disc shouldnt be the problem?? Any ideas...

tractorboy,

I haven't done this swap, but remember seeing info posted about it. Everyone seems to mention using a small die grinder to lengthen the splines on the input shaft so the clutch disc can slide further down the shaft. Not doing this could certainly cause the problems you are describing...I think!

Stuart

Several questions first. Did you extend (open up) the splines on your T5? If you did, did you slide your clutch disc onto the main shaft to insure that it would pass back 3/16-1/4" past the end of the splines towards the transmission? Which disc are you using? Did you get the disc installed with the correct face towards the flywheel? Was the backside of the disc (towards the throwout) fairly flush with the disc surface?

If your transmission bolted up without the disc you've pretty much isolated the problem. You're not the first person to have this same problem so don't panic. The key is to get the splines massaged so that the disc slides back past the end. I ran into the same problem with mine using the RCF-4201 disc.....made the additional cuts and mine is on the road every day.

I've got some pics of the spline tweaking in my webshots shoebox.....someplace around pg 6-8. Hope this helps.

You guys are great...I found your pic 54...I didnt do that. Back to the grinding board.....

Side note: I didnt run the 4201, I have an 11" clutch

Just a word of caution.....you're not going to be grinding new splines....only cutting the very bottom of the existing ones...by sliding on your clutch disc you will be able to see where to cut. If you don't slide on the disc to get your 3/16-1/4" it will be hit or miss. I CAN'T STRESS THIS STRONGLY ENOUGH!!! Save yourself some more time on your back, unbolt your pressure plate, pop out the disc and use the disc to check the splines. If your disc is already out you're in business!!!!! It's a lot easier to re-install your disc and pressure plate than it is to drop your transmission when there is drag on the clutch!!! Been there, done that!!!! Hope this helps!

When you get the tranny back in, if the spline grind doesn't solve the problem for that last 1/2", have someone depress the clutch pedal so that the disk can move a bit, and shake the tranny as you push it in. Those alignment tools are not perfect.

Did you grind an angle back onto the input shaft after shortening it? I did not put enough angle on it and it was a chore to position the tranny just right so it would slide in. Pulled it out to grind the splines and fixed the input shaft while I was at it. Now it slides in no problem!

Hmmm... Yep. I will leave that one alone.

Its probably a combination of all the above. Heres what I did.


[img]http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/1tractorboy/tranny.jpg?t=1165006627[/img]

Did you cut enough off of the tip of the input shaft ? Looks like you need to extend the splines with a narrow grinding wheel.I even ground down the spline hub surface of the disc.I ground the side that faces the transmission.There is a lot of info on this subject.You might do a search in the hipo section as well.Here's a couple of pictures of mine.


splines

clutch disc ground side

other side not ground on disc

True or false...Is there a "Y" in the road? You can either fab an adaptor OR Grind and cut off as T boy and others have done? Thanks, Cosmo.

I believe that if you use an adaptor plate that's about 1/2" thick, you don't need to cut the input shaft or grind the splines. You may still need to cut down the throwout bearing retainer.