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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,408 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | Read several posts dealing with ballast resistors, and I am not quite certain I need one. I have a 55 12v second series motor in my 55 1st series truck. The coil reads," no external resistor needed" although it is still connected to one. It has been wired that way for some time now, and after reading up on it, not sure I need one. Stock distributor and points. Thinking of going the Petronix way though, but that will be in a few months or so. Any harm having it wired as such?? Appreciate the help! Kato | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Kato, you didn't say if the truck was converted to 12 volt, but I'm going to assume it is, if your coil is marked "no external resistor required" then no you don't need a ballast resistor. There were no ballast resistors in the 6 volt trucks. If you haven't been having any symptoms with it wired that way then I would say it isn't doing any "harm", but your spark energy will definately be lower than if you took the ballast resistor out of the circuit, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | 3B, It has been converted to 12v, forgot to mention that bit of information, sorry about that. The only problem I am having, not sure if it is related to ballast, is that when I turn the ignition switch to start, the engine doesn't fire up until I release the switch? (Have plans to put in foot stomp as soon as I get all my parts...correct ignition switch and starter. have foot stomp linkage) I didn't think I needed it , but that's why I ask, to gain knowledge. Thanks!! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Kato, it sounds like you have no provision for resistor bypass, either in your wiring, or on your igniton switch. Some ignition switches had two ignition positions, usually labelled ign 1, and ign 2, one of them provided 12 volts to the coil for better starting, I can't remember which, I'd have to look at a wiring diagram. The other method was a wire from the solenoid or the small side terminal on the foot switch of a stomp starter, this wire went up to the coil side of the ballast resistor, or to the coil positive terminal itself. If you have a solenoid type starter now there should be a wire going from the small outer terminal [away from the engine block] up to the coil side of the ballast resistor, or to the coil positive terminal. If not then I would install one, and that should fix your starting problem. Incidentally if you want to eliminate your ballast resistors function, simply move all the wires down to the coil terminal on it, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 72 | 3B, I'll take a look and see if it has a wire coming off the solenoid to the ballast, or if it is a direct connect to the coil. Trying to picture it off of memory, but it aint what it used to be...I will also have to look and see what kind of ignition switch I have. Whatever the case, I now have a better sense of what to look for and what I will be doing to correct the problem(s). I will be eliminating the ballast resistor, and make the connections to the coil as you mentioned. I have a ton of work in front of me to get her street ready, but it will be worth the time and effort. Thanks for taking the time. Kato | | |
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