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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | I am in the market for an air hammer/chisel for busting factory frame rivets on my '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks. Can anyone offer some advice of what to look for? Brand? Spec's.? Etc.?
I understand the long-stroke air hammers with a good quality chisel-point, is a good solution, but I am not sure which one to get and what is a reasonable price to pay.
Thanks in advance for your time and input. | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 | I think how you remove the rivets are more important than using a high dollar air hammer. I use a campbell hausfeld air hammer with great success . Use a large grinder to remove head of rivet flush with frame. Or a cut off wheel on a die grinder. Cut a X on the head of the rivet, flush with frame. You can use an air hammer or just a punch and a small sledge hammer, works easily if you grind the head off . When you use the die grinder with the X cut use the air hammer with the chisel to remove the head . Then punch out the stem of the rivet. Both ways work better in different areas. Just my two cents ! try the yard in Wichita 1-800-888-8991 new and used tools !
Last edited by webstershotrods; 10/25/2010 4:52 AM.
| | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 | I have a couple of Chicago Pneumatic 717 guns that I have had for 20 years or more. They use a .498 shank chisel. They are expensive new. Occasionally they appear on eBay or at pawn shops. A 5x Rivet gun is about the same as a large air chisel, only much more controllable. However for occasional work, I don't think you can cost justify a heavy gun. I would just grind the button flush, apply a little heat, and give it a good pop with a drift punch. | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | All good points and I have removed factory rivets every way known to man, including the X method, recip saw, grinding/punching head, etc., etc., etc. Since I am parting and restoring '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks for a living, I spend a lot of time stripping frames, which means lots of factory rivets. When I was doing it for giggles, all of the aforementioned methods were feasible, but these methods are no longer time-efficient, therefore, I am looking for some input on the long-stroke air hammers/chisels, that are better suited for the task-at-hand.
Manufacturers and/or model numbers are what I am seeking. I have priced several guns and I am aware they can be a little pricey, but I have determined this is the best method for me and my operation, to remove numerous factory rivets. Thanks for the input and let me know if you have had a good experience with any certain make or model.
Last edited by 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks; 10/27/2010 1:34 PM.
| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I use this one from Snap-On. Has never failed me. If you get one (regardless of brand) opt for the quick release safety chuck over the standard spring style retainer, much safer and easier to change the bits.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,903 | If you are going to use one a lot, I would recommend this one. http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=CHPCP717 I have had two of them for about 20 years. They are very controllable and I use them for up to 3/8" buck rivets and I have chisels for them also. When you use them, something is going to give. Mine have steel pistol grips which makes them a little heavier, but it also absorbs a lot of the shock.
Last edited by crenwelge; 10/28/2010 1:50 AM.
| | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Thanks for the information and links fellows. I appreciate it. It appears the Snap-On is more strokes per minute, longer stroke and weighs less, not to mention it is $300 and the CP is over $500. Thanks again. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 272 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 272 | Longbox55 I have had the exact SNAP-ON in your link for about 10 years and it has never failed me either. Oil it every day and do wear hearing protection. Rivet cutting will damage your hearing. A good padded set of gloves will help with wrist strain and numbness in the palm for heavy all day use.
Brad
| | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Thanks for the endorsement Brad. I may never work with it all day, but hearing & eye protection, as well as, good gloves will be utilized. | | |
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