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#686551 10/16/2010 1:54 AM
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New Guy
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Still working on the purchase of two ton with two speed axle. The dash indicator shows it was in low range when parked. It's a non-runner so have considered towing it home. Was wondering if the rear end could be damaged by towing it faster than it was intended to turn. Figure in low range the truck would probably only run about 20 so if I towed it faster than that speed would it hurt anything. Have about 100 miles to tow it. Is the two speed vacumn operated? Any way that I could shift it to the high side on a non runner? Thanks

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I would put it on a trailer because the tires, bearings, etc. could be bad.

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'Bolter
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When I purchased my 2ton COE I had a rollback wrecker haul it and height wasn't a problem.

Last edited by Chris's 46 / 515; 10/16/2010 2:26 PM.
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You should be able to manually shift the rear end. If it is electric you may be able to just jump the wires on the shift unit itself. Otherwise you could pull off the shift unit and shift it that way as well.(It's just 2 bolts). If it is vacuum then you could unhook the vacuum can and shift it manually as well. Make sure how ever you do it though that the axle stays shifted and stays sealed up.

In any case you would for sure want to pull the drive shaft off the rear end and tie it up WELL, you don't want to be spinning the rear of the transmission for that long. I would also make sure to check the oil level in the rear end to make sure there is lubrication.

I'm not sure how fast you are planning on towing it...but if it is not running then the tires could be questionable and I would not want to go much more than 50 anyway.

The best would obviously be to use a trailer or rollback, but if you are careful, check a few things, and go nice and easy you should be fine.


1946 Chevy OS 1.5ton, 1955 GMC 3100, along with other various IH,Ford,Nash,MGB,.....
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I'd pull the driveshaft and take the axles out. Make sure the tires are up for the ride. Make sure the front is ok. I think that somebody here has pictures of towing a big bolt with a tow bar. Grigg maybe?

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All that is needed is to pull the axles out put the axle covers back on and top off the gear lube. After you top off the gear lube you will want to jack up one side and then the other for a few minutes to ensure that there is plenty of lube in each hub for the wheel bearings.


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Grant from Roy, Washington
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Make sure you pull the drive shaft. The back bearing in the transmission does not oil when it is in neutral and will burn up. Unless you have something as heavy as the truck itself to tow it with, I wouldn't tow it. You won't have enough brakes to stop it in a panic situation. I have a truck towbar that uses a pintle hook on the the draw bar and slips into the pull hook holes on the truck being towed. I then put a light bar on the rear and hook air into the drive axles of the truck being towed to they have brakes. Anything less than this is dangerous and you are exposing yourself to liability if anything happens. 100 miles is a lot pf exposure.

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Originally Posted by HevyHauler
All that is needed is to pull the axles out put the axle covers back on and top off the gear lube.

When you pull the axles the wheels are free wheeling, so no need to pull the driveshaft. But, be sure to have enough brakes to stop the whole affair in the case of an emergency stop.


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Thanks for all the advice I'd be running back roads if I do it. Wrecker companies want 450 to go get it. Just sort of cking my options never thought of pulling the axles. I drive a big truck have seen a sort of boom set up that hooks to the fifth wheel not sure where or if I could rent one. Hoping to find a flat bed I could borrow. Would definitely be the best

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Grigg flat towed a GMC COE from the West Coast, to the East Coast.


Spanky Hardy
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Spanky is most likely referring to Grigg flat-towing (rolling tow) my 2-ton 54/55 GMC flatbed (long bed) from WA state through Macungie, PA to Albany, NY. Here are some photos.

Grigg first removed the rear axles (a quick and easy operation). Grigg also backed off the brakes and replaced a front wheel bearing because we knew it was bad.

The tires seemed to be in good shape but I replaced all the rear axle bearing soon after it was delivered. Grigg will most likely add to this with wise words of advice (I hesitate to state how fast Grigg traveled - I had good insurance).

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I had mine towed on a roll back 7 years ago about 30 miles for $80, but waited 5 hours for the wrecker. Maybe you can find some in their down time to do it cheaper.You wouldn't want to have a problem pulling it, that could make it more costly.

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Originally Posted by garandboy
I would put it on a trailer because the tires, bearings, etc. could be bad.
I agree.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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The tow bar Grigg uses is a smaller version of the one I use except that mine has a pintle eye that can twist. I'm sure Grigg built it himself out of stuff he had around just like I did. However, if you want to have an adequate tow bar built, it would be expensive and much cheaper to hire a towing company.

Last edited by crenwelge; 10/17/2010 5:20 PM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Grigg's tow-bar is a military tow-bar bought surplus/new (as I recall - it was part of the payment-deal). Grigg will chime in on this soon, hopefully.

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Yep, its a military surplus tow bar, suitable for a deuce and a half.

Flat towing something so large and old is not easy and for sure not for everyone. There are a bunch of safer ways to move a truck.

Tim's truck towed well, but I had near 13,000 lb leading it down the road, plenty of HP and excellent disc brakes from a medium duty truck. We kept up at 60-65 mph. It was still a long drive.

Also drained the water out of the rear axle, and removed, cleaned, repacked with grease, and added some lucas oil additive to the rear wheel bearings.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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Bond Villain
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Be sure to check out Barry Weeks' Trailering/Hauling Article

Be safe,
John


~ John

"We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"

1948 International Farmall Super A
1949 Chevrolet 3804
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I just had my 57 Chevy 6700 Wrecker w 2 Ton rear towed on a Rollback about 35 miles, and they were charging me $110/hr. Final bill $385. Truck was not under it's own power, and I didn't have to lift a finger; other than opening my gates.

We were tall, but we made it under all the bridges and low power/telephone lines.

You might also want to be aware if you tow the truck on it's wheels over the highway you probably need it to be registered, and legal to be on the roads even though it's being towed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnoman/sets/72157625095804541/


57 Chevy 6100 Wrecker http://donovanbray.com/tag/57wrekr
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6700?, Donnoman your truck looks to be a 6100, or 6400. 6700 series is a Schoolbus chassis. If "6700" is what your fender emblems say, they have been switched.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
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1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
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'Bolter
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Donnoman,

I like you new toy! Looks like Spanky's right, it's a 6100 with 130" wheel base and a 60" CA. What engine and trans does it have?

You can see my 1956 8400 wrecker in the gallery...

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1956 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1953 Willys M38A1 Fire Jeep
1978 Jeep CJ-5 Navy Jeep
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Hughesville, MD

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