The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve Adjust 235

Hi,

I read the tech article, and used search, too.

How can I turn the engine to adjust the valves? bump the starter? or if by hand, how to do so?

The tech article says to first determine if solid or hydraulic lifters. I have a 1956 engine 235. Is that enough? or do I need to pull a side cover?

Thanks,

My book says adjust hot at operating temp, but the article says warm it up later?

Which to do ?

Run the engine for 30 minutes after reaching operating temperature. Then turn off the engine and adjust the valve lash.

Post the serial number that in pressed into the ledge to the rear of where the distributor enters the block. Here are the 1956 235 codes.

All 235 truck engines had solid/mechanical lifters and all 1956 and later 235 passenger car engines had hydraulic lifters.

You might by able to turn the crankshaft be hand by trying to rotate the harmonic balancer, or by trying to move/rotate the fan belt. This type of flywhell rotating tool will do the job. Last resort, if you need a tool: take the bottom cover off of the clutch housing and pry the flywheel with a strong/large flat-blade screwdriver.

I always just jog the engine with the starter.If I didn't have my remote starter button handy just take a length of wire that will reach from starter to bat terminals, strip an inch of insulation and wrap the bare end around the small solenoid terminal nearest the block.When the other end is touched to bat. positive the starter will pull in allowing you to bump the engine over.Then we can get fancy and put an alligator clip on 1 end for convenience.

Put the transmission in top gear and roll the vehicle forward carefully. You'll be able to control the rotation much more precisely than trying to bump the starter over. I like to watch the cylinder halfway around the firing order to the one I'm getting ready to adjust, and get the exhaust valve closing, and the intake just beginning to open. The "companion" cylinder will be exactly on TDC on the compression stroke at that point. This process works on both solid and hydraulic lifters.
Jerry

i find just grabbing the fly wheel and yank on it until im in the window with the ball. after the first time i set it on the ball i mark the flywheel on the bottom with a another mark on the casting of the bellhousing. when the mark lines up on the bottom the ball is on the pointer. i have all fresh engines and you cannot turn them with the fan/crank pulley because of the tightness of the engine. bumping the starter is a pain for me so i just like to yank it by hand. i find it works well for me.

I turn the engine over using the fan and fan belt. I just pull up on the tension side to maintain the grip.

As anybody tried removing the sparkplugs to remove the compression cycle.....?? engine will then turn by hand quite easily and it becomes a one man job.

Bob C.

That work's quite well.

That's what I do.