The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (dt235sd, klhansen, 2-Ton, 52GMC35424JD, Hotrod Lincoln), 79 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,049
Posts1,055,665
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 256
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 256
I am having a bit of an issue installing the corner glass on my '53. I was able to install one side with little issue. On the other side, however, I can't get it to seat right. I did the exact same method as the other side but for whatever reason the top is sticking out away from the cab. No matter how I try to move the glass around it won't go in.

Once the window is in place the weatherstrip should butt together pretty well. I pulled the glass out a couple times and am still having the same issue. It is the original glass so I don't think it is a fitment issue. Any ideas?

http://i56.tinypic.com/2hmlldh.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/149r4ad.jpg

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
I posted this link in an earlier post

page 2 post #23

There are some experienced glass guys on this forum that may be able to help you.

Where did you get the gasket from?

Good Luck


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 256
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 256
Originally Posted by DADS50
Where did you get the gasket from?


I got it from Classic parts. It seems like decent rubber, though it is fairly stiff rubber.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Ferndale, Did your seals come cut to length?

It looks to me the rubber has been cut a bit too short.
Any half decent glass shop should carry this in stock and should be able to give you a piece of the correct length.
It comes in bulk 30m coils.

Normally when I install this type of seal I cut it 1/4" to 1/2" oversize and 'cram' it into the aperature.
This will allow for the inevitable shrinkage over time.
Make sure the cut are nice and square to each other.
I then seal the join with glazing urethane,or Superglue at a pinch.
The lock strip usually takes care of any puckering at the corner radii as it spreads and tightens the rubber to the glass/body.
Start the lock strip installation with the join opposite from the seal join.
I noticed in the link DADS50 provided, that someone suggests putting the rubber join at the bottom.
I've been installing this type of seal for 14 years now,joining it at the top without problems,water always travels down,and can settle in the rubber right at the join...if it's at the bottom.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 09/11/2010 10:10 PM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
Originally Posted by jockbolter50
I noticed in the link DADS50 provided, that someone suggests putting the rubber join at the bottom.

Hi JockBolter50
In that link he shows the gasket joint at the top/center and the lock bead seal at the bottom/center.

Should the lock bead joint not be at the bottom?


I was just curious,
On my 50 the gasket seal is outboard center of corner glass towards the door, and not at the top. My corner glass original, I think. The lock bead joint is center inboard.

I hope I NEVER have to replace it grin


Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
DAD,seems wierd calling you that. wink

You're correct, in the pictures the guy did what I would do,but in some of the replys I noticed some folks mentioned to put the rubber join at the bottom centre.
In reality the join could go anywhere as long as it was sealed correctly.
The side would work fine as well,just be sure to cut the seal as square as possible.
I use a guillotine type of cutter,which virtually guarantees a square cut.

I generally install this type of seal dry,by that I mean no sealer is used,other than at the join.
Water will naturally gather between the glass and rubber and by introducing the join at the bottom,it gives the potential for leaks when the rubber ages/shrinks over time.

It's my personal preference to join it at the top,and the lock strip join directly opposite.
Again the lock strip/chrome could be joined anywhere,I just think it looks neater.
I guess I'm a bit O.C.D.
It's worked fine for me all this time.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 09/12/2010 8:06 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0